Let me preface this by saying, im no mechanic, but i know enough to install the ape hangers and I have a manual for anything im unsure of.

I decided about a month ago i wanted some apes on my 05 883R so I ordered myself some 12" Burly Narrow Apes as well as their cable and extension kit for my specific bike at that specific height. I know that because I had an R model with dual rotors on the front, the brake line from the kit wouldnt work, but everything else should be fine. SO, I took off my old bars, wiring, etc. and routed the wires through my new bars. I extended the wiring no problem and got them all hooked up, no problems, all the wiring was right. I dry fit the new clutch cable and the damn thing looks like it was made for 16" bars. I saw someone else post about having the same problem with the Burly kit, so i know i didnt get the wrong cable, the kit is just crap. I went to a local cycle shop and get a new clutch cable for $45 that was a better length. I also took my existing brake line in and he measured everything for me and hooked me up with a whole new brake assembly for $158. So I get home, I install the throttle and idle cable without incident. I go to install the brake line and the one going from the reservoir into the "T" is too long. The next day i take it back and get a shorter one. The next day I go to install that and find that the new Banjo fitting up by the reservoir doesnt have the right size hole so the next day i take it back and the shop told me id need to drill it to a slightly larger size, so i went home and did that and attached all the lines, everything was OK. So yesterday I jacked the bike up to drain the primary and change the clutch cable out. Well, the lower brake lines going from the T to the caliper maxed out and wouldnt allow full travel of the front forks, so ill need to return both of those for longer ones. So much for the measuring he did for me. They arent open until tomorrow so i take the opportunity today to change out the clutch cable. I got the cover off, got the insides out, loosened the adjusting screw and removed the existing clutch cable. I slid the new cable end through the hole and began screwing in the new clutch cable nut into the primary, i was going slowly, wasnt feeling any force or anything unusal and then all the sudden, the clutch cable popped out. probably about the top 1/3 of the threads ramaining inside the primary cover. So now my clutch cable is stuck in there because the remaining threads wont allow the actual wire part to come through. How screwed am I on this? Does the entire cover need to be removed and then somehow can those threads be freed allowing the clutch cable to be removed, or am i going to need a whole new primary cover? God, I hope not. This has really ruined my day and overall this project has taken about a week and a half longer than it should have and im not even close to done it doesnt seem like.

And the nice weather is just about here.

 

Since you have no torque on the part broken off , you can get a small chisel and back it out very slowly

 

not working. wouldnt there have to be some torque on it for it to have sheared off?

 

You could cut the end of the cable off and use an easy out , but then you need a new cable. If by chance you cross threaded it then your screwed. They make large easy out's you could get one and cut a slot in it so ya can slip the cable in.

 

well, i sheared off 1/3 of the threads, i kind of assumed i needed a new cable anyway. Maybe i dont?

I'll keep trying. Thanks for the help so far.

 

Think your best bet is to cut the cable and get an easy out in there. you can pick one up from snap on , mac . Just take the left over cable with you to match up the size needed . If you were closer I'd do it for you

 

Yep I would cut off the end and use an easy out the get it out. Call the shop and tell them the Clutch cable threaded end is junk and get them to give you a new one.

 

Make sure you run a thread tap through it before you install a new cable , to clean the threads and make this does not happen again

 

For those that don't know, an easy out has reversed threads. When it grabs, it'll back the offending fastener out. Usually, a pilot hole is required. This set from Sears has saved my bacon a few times:

 

Good luck with that! IF there was some way to prove that it was defective from the factory then, maybe.

I would try to back it out with a small screwdriver or chisel. Try putting a flat screwdriver in the broken part and spin the screwdriver and cable at the same time. If in fact there was no resistance going in, there should be none coming out.

You could also try filing small grooves for the screwdriver blade.