All the advice above is good. It also seems that you are not yet totally comfy on the bike. I would suggest some practice time on an empty parking lot to work on your skills and build your confidence. Better safe than sorry!

 

Read this a few times, GREAT ADVICE

 

Brake (don't break, that requires fixing, and can get expensive) before the curve, accelerate through it. If you inadvertently carried too much speed into the corner, then light back brake is acceptable. Don't use the front brake at all in a curve. When braking prior to the curve, though, you should be on the front brake hard. If you are running down a mountainside, and you find yourself braking often and braking during a curve, then you are in the wrong gear. Downshift!

 

For the first shift of the day into 1st, pull the clutch in, rev the motor once, while still holding the clutch in wait at least 7 seconds then put it in first. This method seems to work best on the big twins, but it's helpful on the Sportsters, too. It'll take about 12 seconds for you to try it and see how it does.
Practice emergency stops and slow speed manuvers in a parking lot. Stay off the front brake while turning at very slow speeds.
This book, Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough, is an outstanding resource. About $14 at Amazon:

 

what everyone else said....I am on the highway alot on my Sportster and have no issues...sure 6th gear would be great but my 89' only had 4 .......

 

Solid advice from tekdiver, these are the rules I try to live by. It's best to complete your braking and shifting prior to entering the curve. It isn't written in stone that you can't, it will sometimes depend on your situation, obstacles, etc. Apply proper judgement, and you develop the judgement thru experience and classes if you take them. And let me tell you, experience has taught me some good proper judgement, the type where the pucker factor increases 10 fold.

Sportys on freeways are no issue.

Mine will clunck into first too at times.

Practice when you can and ride safe.

 

A quick read form Freddie Spencer .... it might help you in the twisties.

http://hrca.honda.com/Articles/Artic...ticle_0420.xml

 

Trail Braking,,I get asked what this is often.

Setting Speed Precisely:
Trail Braking's bottom line is safety. The ability to trail-brake allows you to set your cornering speed closer to the Apex which is the slowest point of a corner. Those who use their brakes in a straight line and then let go of them to steer their bikes are deciding very early in the corner what speed they need. If you always ride the same road thats ok-as long as there are no mid-corner surprises.
But the ability to use your brakes while leaned over will allow speed adjustments all the way through the corner, even past the apex if the neccessary.

Yep,,another way I look at It,,,
I trail brake in and power out,,always
even If only a tiny bit. I Keep a wide line till I see the corner exit.
When I transition from trail Braking and my corner speed Is set,
I look for the Apex and for me this Is the Slowest point because At that Point I begin
to accelerate out of the turn,,
Again this acceleration I use to assit In "Standing the Bike up"
which IMO does feel far more stable than just steering the bike out.
My Goal,,ONE steering Input on entry and no other Bar Input changes after that.
I wan't all my traction available for braking, lean angle and acceleration.
Any directional changes after the entry are with careful brakes and throttle.
YES you can safely use brakes IN the corner If a shut throttle is not quite enough.
But you better be smooth and know the light touch.
Also I've learned how easy Cagers get spooked In multi lane corners...
I track a Car type line because using the whole lane on a bike,,,diving for an apex
scares the crap outta many cagers.

 

Street Lesson
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A racer's eye-movement pattern makes sense for street riders also.
If you leave your eyes on the corner entrance too long, you might miss the radius or debris in the corner.
Keep your eyes moving, get them off the entrance to the middle of the corner and as you approach the middle, look to the exit. Make all eye movements smooth and controlled. The faster you ride the farther you'll need to look ahead of your bike.

 

100 Points if traction
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All Tires have it,,On wet or dry roads,,old tire's or new. The scale may be lower in the rain but you still have 100 points.
So In a straight line you can use all 100 points for Haulin *** or hard braking. If you practice with your brakes you can make the Tires howl and not let them skid. The howling front or rear tire means your knockin on that 100 points,,anymore and you loose it.
The same 100 points are for leaning over in a turn. So how do you do both,,turning and braking?
Lets say your getting into a corner too hot. Lets say this tire has 100 points of lean angle and is using 86 of those traction points for cornering.
A smooth well trained right hand can add 14 braking points in an emergency while an abrupt hand would grab 40 and fall down.