New shocks?
#4
If you want coil type shocks, I recommend Progressive 412's in 12.5" or longer. The 12.5" and up have a better spring rate than the shorter versions and that provides a better ride.
.
#5
My 2009 1200L has 13 inch long 412's on it and its MUCH better then stock, light years better. The belt looks close to the frame so I limited it to 13 inch shocks.
Push the forks down in the clamps and fit progressive springs with some preload to increase the front and get better ride quality, and switch the oil out to 10 weight fork oil.
You end up with some ground clearance and a much better ride.
Push the forks down in the clamps and fit progressive springs with some preload to increase the front and get better ride quality, and switch the oil out to 10 weight fork oil.
You end up with some ground clearance and a much better ride.
#6
#7
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#8
TEST RIDE Carefully,,
quote=chrishogrider;7915674]I would like to put new shocks on my 2007 XL1200L, It comes with 11.5", can I go to 12.5 or 13.5 with out hurting anything?[/quote]
I gotta add:
You go taller In the back and do nothing else you will change effective
"Rake" as In steepening the neck angle there by Making steering Input more reactive.
This brings on many changes,
Steeper steering head angle CAN equal a lighter steering feel
which CAN Induce a Hi-Speed wobble.
And CAN Induce a twitchy feel when the front end Is tracking road cracks or
paint lines.
Also It CAN greatly effect forward weight shift while braking.
In extreme emergency braking In a corner This steeper angle CAN
overwhelm the front tire a bit sooner.
Notice I said "Can",,not will,,melow riding and even what many riders think
Is hard riding may be just fine.
BUT when the time comes and It will,, when you need to operate at or near the bikes limits
These hadling traits due to a bad setup could kill you.
I know yer not running yer bike at 95% of Its limits or YOUR limits
but these things need to be explored with care.
Standard Rule to follow to NOT Induce a bad handling characteristic
Is Lower Frame rails level or a bit lower to the REAR.
Never set up a Sportster lower to the front.
Sit the bike with all gear,,have a freind measure as far forward and
rearward under the bike where the frame rails are straight...
Remember that suspension Is a balance, front and rear work together.
You Put a faster reacting better damped tuned shock on the rear and
your stock front end will show you Its shortcommings real fast and possibly real sudden.
I gotta add:
You go taller In the back and do nothing else you will change effective
"Rake" as In steepening the neck angle there by Making steering Input more reactive.
This brings on many changes,
Steeper steering head angle CAN equal a lighter steering feel
which CAN Induce a Hi-Speed wobble.
And CAN Induce a twitchy feel when the front end Is tracking road cracks or
paint lines.
Also It CAN greatly effect forward weight shift while braking.
In extreme emergency braking In a corner This steeper angle CAN
overwhelm the front tire a bit sooner.
Notice I said "Can",,not will,,melow riding and even what many riders think
Is hard riding may be just fine.
BUT when the time comes and It will,, when you need to operate at or near the bikes limits
These hadling traits due to a bad setup could kill you.
I know yer not running yer bike at 95% of Its limits or YOUR limits
but these things need to be explored with care.
Standard Rule to follow to NOT Induce a bad handling characteristic
Is Lower Frame rails level or a bit lower to the REAR.
Never set up a Sportster lower to the front.
Sit the bike with all gear,,have a freind measure as far forward and
rearward under the bike where the frame rails are straight...
Remember that suspension Is a balance, front and rear work together.
You Put a faster reacting better damped tuned shock on the rear and
your stock front end will show you Its shortcommings real fast and possibly real sudden.
Last edited by Osco; 02-14-2011 at 02:05 PM.
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