Sportster Models 883, 883 Custom, 1200 Custom, 883L, 1200L, 1200S, 1200 Roadster, XR1200, and the Nightster.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

two bikes one deer. braking question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 10-12-2010, 05:34 PM
Galvatron's Avatar
Galvatron
Galvatron is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Last summer I was coming down a steep (19% grade) curvy road near my house at dusk. I came into a straight at about 40mph and a deer jumped out in front of me. First reaction was brake and stay straght. I ended up locking the rear for about 60 feet and let off. It was scary but got the job done. I'm afraid if I would have railed the front brake at might have bucked me. I guess the best option would have been a combination of the two, but pressures change based on speed pitch and slope. It's hard to teach yourself how to react in panic situations without actually having the surprise factor.
 
  #22  
Old 10-12-2010, 06:02 PM
RAL's Avatar
RAL
RAL is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Galvatron
Last summer I was coming down a steep (19% grade) curvy road near my house at dusk. I came into a straight at about 40mph and a deer jumped out in front of me. First reaction was brake and stay straght. I ended up locking the rear for about 60 feet and let off. It was scary but got the job done. I'm afraid if I would have railed the front brake at might have bucked me. I guess the best option would have been a combination of the two, but pressures change based on speed pitch and slope. It's hard to teach yourself how to react in panic situations without actually having the surprise factor.
In a panic we go for what we know. If you make a habit of using the front and the back brake in the proper manner ALL THE TIME that is what you will do when the elephant shows up. Do yourself a favor and practice quick stops until you can use the front & the rear brakes together without locking up the wheels. Don't go out and slam on the binders at 80......find a quiet spot with no traffic, parking lot....someplace that you know has no traffic and practice. Start slow 15 miles an hour and practice....until you can stop quickly without wheel lock and just as importantly you feel confident in your ability to do so.
Don't hurt yourself with your training....stay fairly slow...you are building muscle memory.


RAL
 
  #23  
Old 10-13-2010, 02:57 AM
Osco's Avatar
Osco
Osco is offline
Account Deactivated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,757
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 4 Posts
Cool Yup

Originally Posted by tekdiver500ft
Absolutely, 100% wrong. What happens is that you will stall the bike, and lose any chance of control. You need to go to an empty parking lot, and practice stopping hard with just the front brake. Learn where the breaking point is on your brake, so that you know when you are at the edge of traction with that brake. Then do the same with the rear. Then do both together. Do NOT teach yourself to downshift as a means of slowing the bike. DO grab the clutch, leave it in, and downshift at the appropriate speeds, revving the engine as needed to allow the transmission to select the next lower gear.
Read this quote TEN times,,,then read It again,,,

IF you DON'T spend time doing REAL braking drills, practice,,,
Your gonna get Killed out there.

As for the MSF and that ,,"Lock the rear?? and Keeping It locked"
BULLCHIT!!!
This Is taught because NEW riders cannot react quickly yet.
IF the rear Is locked and the bike Is not straight and you let up,,YES the bike can "Hi side" or side snap.
If yer straight and you lock the rear then very quickly let up, the bike should only twitch once..
YOU NEED BOTH wheels turning for the Gyroscopic stability they produce.
You lock the rear and that stopps the engine,,well,,
You just lost two outta three stabilizing gyroscopes .
Two outta three you say ???
yeah the rear wheel and the engine flywheel..

Remember, as you squeez the front brake weight transfer
takes place and the rear needs less pressure to lock up.
Master that Front brake first!!!
 

Last edited by Osco; 10-13-2010 at 03:00 AM.
  #24  
Old 10-13-2010, 03:03 PM
Guest
Guest
Posts: n/a
Default

Originally Posted by Osco
Read this quote TEN times,,,then read It again,,,

IF you DON'T spend time doing REAL braking drills, practice,,,
Your gonna get Killed out there.

As for the MSF and that ,,"Lock the rear?? and Keeping It locked"
BULLCHIT!!!
This Is taught because NEW riders cannot react quickly yet.
IF the rear Is locked and the bike Is not straight and you let up,,YES the bike can "Hi side" or side snap.
If yer straight and you lock the rear then very quickly let up, the bike should only twitch once..
YOU NEED BOTH wheels turning for the Gyroscopic stability they produce.
You lock the rear and that stopps the engine,,well,,
You just lost two outta three stabilizing gyroscopes .
Two outta three you say ???
yeah the rear wheel and the engine flywheel..

Remember, as you squeez the front brake weight transfer
takes place and the rear needs less pressure to lock up.
Master that Front brake first!!!
Yeah, what he said.
 
  #25  
Old 10-14-2010, 09:53 PM
madchemist24's Avatar
madchemist24
madchemist24 is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 1,209
Received 7 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

probably one of the best threads I read today ... THX
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SCGamecock
Touring Models
68
09-11-2019 12:54 PM
SGMongoose
2014-2023 Touring Models
15
11-27-2015 06:55 AM
bglaze
General Harley Davidson Chat
5
08-14-2013 05:55 PM
mac5725
General Harley Davidson Chat
72
02-26-2013 04:24 PM
DenimStreet
General Harley Davidson Chat
146
03-16-2012 04:04 PM



Quick Reply: two bikes one deer. braking question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:23 AM.