I recently finished my stage 1 mod on my 06' 1200C. I decided to go with the new Rinehart/BUB slip-ons on the recommendation of a local custom builder, BUB's reputation as exhaust makers and also that I got them at a great price. The pipes sound amazing and look great. They are loud though and as with most free flowing exhaust systems I lost some low end torque. Mid range and horsepower has increased dramatically but I would like to gain some low end back. I inquired BUB about a set of smaller baffles but at this time they do not make any for these mufflers. I also inquired them about any modifications I can do but have not got any response as yet. I've heard of people making tunable baffles from a washer welded to the top of a bolt and bolted into the muffler but I cant say I'm crazy about the idea of drilling holes in my new mufflers to install something like this. If anyone has had this type of problem or if anyone has any ideas I would be grateful. Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down. Thanks: Mike



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I did that to my SE pipes. Lookup lollipops. Actually worked for me. Around here the old timers called them snuffers and used a spring so they could "tune their pipes". Tim

 

The washer welded to a bolt is an old drag pipe trick, but I have to ask one thing. Didn't the slipons come with baffles in them? If they did and the baffles are the straight thru design, heres what to do. Take the baffles out and weld a washer on the other end and then put the baffles back. You can go from totaly closing off the one end to any size hole in a washer. I have drags with baffles that I have worked with to get them tuned for the right sound and still have some of the low end torque that I wanted. You have to compromise when it comes to sound or torque. The only other way I know of keeping more low end torque and having a louder exhaust is to run the 2 into 1 systems that use the opposing cylinder pressures to retain the backpressure necessary to keep some of the low end torque. Don't forget you might have to change your carb jetting or readjust it for the difference, I went from a 45 slow with the quiet baffles to a 48 with the modified ones.

 

The washer/lolipop thing sounds interesting to me but they also make "restrictor rings" not sure what they're actually called that go into the top of your head pipes.That will create more back pressure and possibly more low end torque.They're cheap and easy to install so you might want to give that a shot.

 

Yeah, they're called "power cones", "torque cones" or AR (anti-reversionary) valves. They'll give you your nessicary back pressure and help replace low end torque when using free-flowing exaust systems. I put them in my head pipes after I gutted the Cycle Shack slip-ons I had installed. It's my understanding that these cones are meant to be used if you remove the baffles from your exhaust system.

The cones are easy to install, they go inbetween the heads & the head pipes (cone next to head + crush-gasket over cone + then head pipe). Be sure to bolt 'em in good & tight!!

 

i just installed power cones on mine and it did make the bike feel a bit more responsive on the low end..i amd gonna take the baffles out of my se2s and take it for a ride an see how it runs..

 

Cool! - And let us know how (or if) ya like the sound, too!!

Loud Pipes Save Lives

 

Thanks for all the good info guys. I hadn't even thought about power cones but I think I'm gonna try a set.

 

Here's what I wrote up on drag pipes: https://www.hdforums.com/m_79533/tm.htm

The torque cones don't really add much in the way of back pressure, though they do offer a little bit. The real reason for torque cones, and why they're also called anti-reversion devices, is this: By decreasing the diameter the velocity of the exhaust gases is increased in that smaller diameter section. As velocity increases, pressure decreases. That means the pressure before the small section of the cone is higher than the pressure in the small section. This helps prevent the exhaust gases from flowing back into the combustion chamber especially during any valve overlap, as the gases must always flow from a higher pressure to a lower pressure. Notice I said helps. It is possible that the pressure in the combustion chamber goes low, and stays there long enough for some reversion to take place, depending upon the length of the pipe, and several other factors. This is one reason why too-long pipes are power robbers. And also why too-short pipes can allow a charge of too-cool air to hit the exhaust valves and screw them up.

I made my own cones for my 2-1/4" drags out of a 2" to 1-3/4" copper pipe reducer. Mine were installed near the end of the pipes, as far up as I could pound them, rather than the head 'cause that's the only place I could do so. The cones installed at the head-end would work better. I also made and installed lollipops, and tuned them by "seat-of-the-pants. They ended up being at 90 degrees (across the pipe, for maximum back pressure).

 

Forget the torque cones. They are on the wrong end of the pipe.

Lollipop baffles work well, though. I made a set and put them in front of my mufflers after swapping from the stock crossover headpipes to duals. My butt dyno showed an improvement in bottom end.