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Rake the forty-eight?

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  #11  
Old 04-16-2011 | 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tekdiver500ft
It would also make it look less like a 48, and less like the bobber it emulates. Kinda defeats the whole purpose of the bike, really.
But not doing something because it defeats the purpose of buying a bike also defeats the purpose of buying your OWN bike, really. Why buy something and keep it the way it is just because that's what factory says it should be?

But to who asked me this question the answers is I haven't got around too it yet, but I have still been searching. My whole problem is getting rid of the stock triple that has the riser welded in which I personally love since it complements the laid down speedo.
 
  #12  
Old 04-16-2011 | 05:25 AM
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NO WORRIES BARRY GOOD LUCK .. M NOW LOOKING TO BUY RAKED TREES FROM http://www.seegercycle.com/Raked-Triple-Trees.aspx IN COMING MONTHS.. N I AGREE WITH YOU U BUY BIKE TO BLEND IT INTO YOU NOT THE WAY FREAKIN HARLEY MADE IT ..
 
  #13  
Old 04-16-2011 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry Powers
But not doing something because it defeats the purpose of buying a bike also defeats the purpose of buying your OWN bike, really. Why buy something and keep it the way it is just because that's what factory says it should be?
great point and very true.
 
  #14  
Old 04-16-2011 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry Powers
But not doing something because it defeats the purpose of buying a bike also defeats the purpose of buying your OWN bike, really. Why buy something and keep it the way it is just because that's what factory says it should be?

But to who asked me this question the answers is I haven't got around too it yet, but I have still been searching. My whole problem is getting rid of the stock triple that has the riser welded in which I personally love since it complements the laid down speedo.
To each his own, I'm not telling anyone how to build their bike, just making a point, which you seem to have missed. The point is that if you are going to build a bike with a long front end, then start with one that had that in mind. If you start with something like the 48, then keep the front end short. I'm all about modifications and personalizations, I just prefer to keep the soul of the bike intact.
 
  #15  
Old 04-16-2011 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by tekdiver500ft
The point is that if you are going to build a bike with a long front end, then start with one that had that in mind. If you start with something like the 48, then keep the front end short.
So...what your saying is that the 48 was created by the MC to not be raked out because the MC never had that kind of mod in mind for it......? Wow that is a pretty interesting view. Is there anything mod wise that I shouldn't be doing to my Street Bob that you know of? LOL I just want to be sure I stick with what the MC had in mind for my bike!
 
  #16  
Old 04-16-2011 | 10:24 AM
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Here's the warning from an ol' fart - Raked trees are designed to correct for increased trail when a frame is raked. They are also designed to get a "good" trail measurement on some factory bikes that have somewhat unusual stock rake and front end combinations. Raked trees may cause your trail to decrease so that your bike becomes unstable at higher speeds. If you've never experienced a tank slapper high speed wobble make sure your insurance is paid up.

If you decide to use raked trees, do the measuring and math to figure what your new trail will be. If that trail is below about 4 inches, I suggest doing something else.

Here is a link that can explain things. It has a good diagram and a trail calculator.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html
 
  #17  
Old 04-16-2011 | 10:57 AM
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Cool That Is what I'm talkin about

Originally Posted by pococj
Here's the warning from an ol' fart - Raked trees are designed to correct for increased trail when a frame is raked. They are also designed to get a "good" trail measurement on some factory bikes that have somewhat unusual stock rake and front end combinations. Raked trees may cause your trail to decrease so that your bike becomes unstable at higher speeds. If you've never experienced a tank slapper high speed wobble make sure your insurance is paid up.
If you decide to use raked trees, do the measuring and math to figure what your new trail will be. If that trail is below about 4 inches, I suggest doing something else.
Here is a link that can explain things. It has a good diagram and a trail calculator.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html
Old Farts rule !
An you young whippersnappers better damn well Listen,,,and learn

Shure Its YOUR bike and you should do with It what ever you wan't.
Just DO YOUR HOMEWORK before changing HD R&D.

Remember,,they did their homework,,so should you,,,,,,
 
  #18  
Old 04-16-2011 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thegrants82
So...what your saying is that the 48 was created by the MC to not be raked out because the MC never had that kind of mod in mind for it......? Wow that is a pretty interesting view. Is there anything mod wise that I shouldn't be doing to my Street Bob that you know of? LOL I just want to be sure I stick with what the MC had in mind for my bike!
Gee, you go out of your way to flame me just because you don't like to hear the truth, then you slam me for flaming???

HD put tons of hours into correctly engineering the frame and front end of their bikes to ride, steer, and handle well. When you add rake, you can be drastically changing and probably ruining their R&D efforts, let alone the styling choices. I applaud people for making stylistic changes to their bikes, but changing frame geometries without solid engineering is dangerous. When I say that you should think about what a bike starts as, I'm saying that you should consider the styling, sure, but more importantly, the engineering. If you want a long front end, then start with something like a Wide Glide that is designed to have one in the first place.

Originally Posted by pococj
Here's the warning from an ol' fart - Raked trees are designed to correct for increased trail when a frame is raked. They are also designed to get a "good" trail measurement on some factory bikes that have somewhat unusual stock rake and front end combinations. Raked trees may cause your trail to decrease so that your bike becomes unstable at higher speeds. If you've never experienced a tank slapper high speed wobble make sure your insurance is paid up.

If you decide to use raked trees, do the measuring and math to figure what your new trail will be. If that trail is below about 4 inches, I suggest doing something else.

Here is a link that can explain things. It has a good diagram and a trail calculator.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html
Exactly! Thanks for explaining it better than I did.

Originally Posted by Osco
Old Farts rule !
An you young whippersnappers better damn well Listen,,,and learn

Shure Its YOUR bike and you should do with It what ever you wan't.
Just DO YOUR HOMEWORK before changing HD R&D.

Remember,,they did their homework,,so should you,,,,,,
Thanks, Osco. Us old-timers have to stick together.
 
  #19  
Old 04-16-2011 | 01:54 PM
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Well from my perspective I think you guys got the wrong impression about how I wanted to rake the front end, a 3-5 degree rake is barely anything just would open the front end up a tad which is what I want, I can't speak for anyone else. I don't want that super elongated look.

TekDiver you never once said anything from an engineering pov, always said it will change the 48 from a 48. I agree with the whole engineering aspect and no all the worries with trail and things that come with raking. And a 3-5 degree rake keeps it within range so ride on
 
  #20  
Old 04-16-2011 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry Powers
Well from my perspective I think you guys got the wrong impression about how I wanted to rake the front end, a 3-5 degree rake is barely anything just would open the front end up a tad which is what I want, I can't speak for anyone else. I don't want that super elongated look.

TekDiver you never once said anything from an engineering pov, always said it will change the 48 from a 48. I agree with the whole engineering aspect and no all the worries with trail and things that come with raking. And a 3-5 degree rake keeps it within range so ride on
Good to hear the trail will be OK with what you're wanting to do. I think the 48 would look better with that bit more of rake, too. How far will a 3 or 5 degree rake drop the front end? Wouldn't look right if it put the bike in a nose-down position.
 



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