Side Mount Model "A" Plate Issues....
#1
09-13-2010, 08:24 PM
Side Mount Model "A" Plate Issues....
Just got my vertical model A mount and light. Disconnected my old side mount plate and light and hooked up the new one. It won't work right. I ran the same 2 wires as I did to the old one. The light lit up, but when you hit the brakes, it turned OFF completely. Checked all the fuses. Used the same damn wires!!!!!! WTF? Front brake lever turns it off, and foot brake did nothing whatsoever. I'm confused. Took the bulbs out to check them and saw they are single filament. Shouldn't they be dual filament? Started disconnecting my controls up front -thinking my clip-ons frayed a wire. Didn't really see anything weird. Now the light doesn't power on AT ALL. My old plate light worked PERFECT the day before. This thing looks SO nice on my bike and now I'm confused and disappointed 
#2
09-13-2010, 08:51 PM
#3
09-13-2010, 09:07 PM
Tourer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: yankton SD
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
09-13-2010, 09:08 PM
Cruiser
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The light bulb definitely needs to be dual filament. Other than your light being single filament it should've worked fine. I cut the wires for the front brake since i use the front and rear at the same time anyway but i would think that it should work with both.
I can tell you that those model A light/plate can be sketchy. I had mind for few months and the part of the bracket that holds the light snapped off from the vibrations. From the friends I spoke to, they can't be made hard enough for it to withstand the vibration when it's mounted low on the bike, on the axle for example so you should keep an eye on it. Because of this i plan on getting a plate made that mounts on the top shock bolt so it sits directly in the middle of the shock, making the plate closer to the rear wheel thus making the rear slimmer. I'll post some pics when it gets done. hopefully you can fix your issue.
I can tell you that those model A light/plate can be sketchy. I had mind for few months and the part of the bracket that holds the light snapped off from the vibrations. From the friends I spoke to, they can't be made hard enough for it to withstand the vibration when it's mounted low on the bike, on the axle for example so you should keep an eye on it. Because of this i plan on getting a plate made that mounts on the top shock bolt so it sits directly in the middle of the shock, making the plate closer to the rear wheel thus making the rear slimmer. I'll post some pics when it gets done. hopefully you can fix your issue.
#5
09-13-2010, 09:45 PM
After a few lemonade and vodkas on my porch I realized something....
My OLD brake light had 1 dual filament bulb. The new model A has 2 single filament bulbs. I think rewiring them the same way I had my uni-bulb caused them to cancel out when I hit the brakes. Tomorrow I will rewire the brake bulb and leave the license plate bulb alone and see what happens. I think I figured this out. Gotta put my controls back together and start from scratch tomorrow.....
My OLD brake light had 1 dual filament bulb. The new model A has 2 single filament bulbs. I think rewiring them the same way I had my uni-bulb caused them to cancel out when I hit the brakes. Tomorrow I will rewire the brake bulb and leave the license plate bulb alone and see what happens. I think I figured this out. Gotta put my controls back together and start from scratch tomorrow.....
#6
09-14-2010, 05:22 AM
Road Warrior
Hey Streetfighter. Since my pos turn signals got flooded and will cost me $500 for the one unit I figure I could do with the model A tail/running and the mini bullet LEDs from JM.
I've asked JM and licks and it seems I'd need an equalizer. Badlands apparently makes one. Badlands told me something about joining the wires.
Well have a read if it makes any amount of sense to you:
I've asked JM and licks and it seems I'd need an equalizer. Badlands apparently makes one. Badlands told me something about joining the wires.
Well have a read if it makes any amount of sense to you:
You can do the rear turn signals as run/brake/turn with our Illuminator (which has the Load Equalizer III built-in), or just as turn signals with our Load Equalizer III.
If you still have the stock plugs, you can use our "C" plug configuration (LE-03-C or ILL-01-C). You will need to remove the stock Harley module, and you will NOT wire the running light power to the lights. If the lights are a 3-wire system, twist the two power wires together and run as a single wire to the outputs of the Illuminator, or to the turn signal wire if you do just signals.
#7
09-14-2010, 05:50 PM
Pixie, what that's telling you is that if you use the Illuminatorm it makes it's own intensity for the running light. So, you don't want to power up the running light seperately. I've done this with an Illuminator and it's easy. Just one output wire per rear turn signal does run brake and turn.
Trending Topics
#8
09-15-2010, 01:57 PM
Road Warrior
Thanx Desert. I received another mail from Dan at Badlanders, he's awesome.
Okay, as I understand it, you want to use the referenced Joker Machine lights as TURN SIGNAL ONLY, front and rear. This means you will have no running light function on the turn signals, either front or rear. OR, maybe the lights are dual intensity in the front, like a stock 1157 bulb, in which case you can have run/turn up front.
In either case, it is no problem. You will need our Load Equalizer III to keep the Harley TSSM happy. Note that the Load Equalizer does not drive the lights, it just tricks the Harley TSM/TSSM into thinking the stock incandescent bulbs are still there. With our Load Equalizer III, only one is required for the whole bike, regardless of the combination of lights. As long as you save the plugs that join the Main Harness to the Rear Fender harness, you can use the plug in version LE-03-C. Or, if you lose those plugs as part of the customization process, you can use the hard-wire version LE-03.
For the tail light assembly ("Model A"), you do not need any kind of module, ASSUMING the light is a dual intensity like a normal tail light. You just wire it up to the running light circuit on the low intensity, and to the output of the brake light switches on the high intensity. I would expect the light's instructions would detail this. And if it is not dual intensity, we do make a module (our IHL-01) which will convert it to dual intensity.
The LE-03-C is $69.95 retail, LE-03 is $59.95.
Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
#9
09-15-2010, 04:42 PM
Banned
#10
09-15-2010, 06:27 PM