Stator
#11
08-16-2010, 09:04 AM
From the pictures in the shop manual I have looked at, it really looks simple to unwind the wire, measure the length, and rewind it.
There used to be a lot of electric motor repair shops that rewound motors, but they seem to be rare anymore.
It does not look like a lot of wire, and you can buy enameled wire with different ratings, some stuff is designed to have the insulation melt with heat (for soldering connections), other stuff is not.
You can also use glass tape to insulate the turns from the metal core so the wire does not short to it.
On my old British bikes, the stators were potted, sealed from the lube and vibration between turns. They never burn out, but sometimes the wires break where they exit the stator.
If people are blowing stators, it might be vibration that shorts the wire to the core, and/or hot lube causing the insulation on the wires to break down.
Or, the regulator fails and allows the battery to discharge into the stator burning it up.
A fuse in line between the stator and regulator might prevent that from happening.
Brett
There used to be a lot of electric motor repair shops that rewound motors, but they seem to be rare anymore.
It does not look like a lot of wire, and you can buy enameled wire with different ratings, some stuff is designed to have the insulation melt with heat (for soldering connections), other stuff is not.
You can also use glass tape to insulate the turns from the metal core so the wire does not short to it.
On my old British bikes, the stators were potted, sealed from the lube and vibration between turns. They never burn out, but sometimes the wires break where they exit the stator.
If people are blowing stators, it might be vibration that shorts the wire to the core, and/or hot lube causing the insulation on the wires to break down.
Or, the regulator fails and allows the battery to discharge into the stator burning it up.
A fuse in line between the stator and regulator might prevent that from happening.
Brett
#12
08-16-2010, 09:11 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
Someone was saying that running Mobil 1 75w90 gear lube was blowing them.
I don't see how unless something in the lube breaks down or shorts out the wire insulation.
So what do you guys with bad stators run for primary lube?
If you were cheap, you could unwind the wire and rewind it, maybe using better wire (better insulation).
From what I have seen, they look like they were wound by hand, likely in Korea or Mexico....by 10 year olds....
Brett
I don't see how unless something in the lube breaks down or shorts out the wire insulation.
So what do you guys with bad stators run for primary lube?
If you were cheap, you could unwind the wire and rewind it, maybe using better wire (better insulation).
From what I have seen, they look like they were wound by hand, likely in Korea or Mexico....by 10 year olds....
Brett
best thing to do is buy one stator and keep your old one. as they burn out, rewind them. forget about heavier wire that wont help it'll only hurt.
you want the highest temp magnet wire you can get.
#13
08-16-2010, 12:45 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Cycle Electric is what I've been looking at, but I've yet to find a dealer that stocks the "system" (stator & reg) I need to fit for the 04-06 models, so I can get a price. I'm lead to believe that it's inline with the price for an HD stator and reg.
BUT, you might want to read HERE and then do some searches for additional info. With some fab work for the reg. bracket, the 38 amp 3-phase XB Buell stator and reg is supposed to be nice solution for under $200 in parts.
Here are the Buelll Parts I need for a 3 phase 38 Amp system (verify for your year bike)
29971-02Y is the Stator
y0302.02a8 is the regulator
BUT, you might want to read HERE and then do some searches for additional info. With some fab work for the reg. bracket, the 38 amp 3-phase XB Buell stator and reg is supposed to be nice solution for under $200 in parts.
Here are the Buelll Parts I need for a 3 phase 38 Amp system (verify for your year bike)
29971-02Y is the Stator
y0302.02a8 is the regulator
I'm thinking maybe ACCEL Single Phase might be the way to go. lol
Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Aaron,
1: Is there any truth to the quotes below?
2: Are they plug and play on a 96 Sportster?
3: Also will it fit on a 2004C?
His Reply,
aswracing
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
I haven't actually done this conversion, but I looked into it awhile back. I even bought an XB front sprocket/rotor and stator off Ebay but I haven't got around to installing it.
The big issue is that the tooth counts for the front sprocket are different, and the rotor is not available as a separate piece from Buell, you have to buy the whole assembly. So it doesn't just slap on.
Your primary is 35T front, 56T rear. A Buell XB12 primary is 38T front, 57T rear. A Buell XB9 primary is 34T front, 57T rear
So in a nutshell, if you tried to slap on a Buell front sprocket/rotor assembly, your chain will either be too small or too big.
It's possible that a stock XB9 chain with the XB9 front sprocket would solve the problem, but I don't know. If you went that route and it fits, you'd be gearing your bike down somewhat.
Another alternative is to move an XB rotor hat from it's stock front sprocket over to your your stock front sprocket. You'd have to take out all the bolts and then press the two apart. I've pressed those off before, for race bikes without charging systems, and it's a bit tricky to do without damaging the rotor hat. It takes a fair bit of force and it likes to distort the rotor. Make sure it's well supported.
The big issue is that the tooth counts for the front sprocket are different, and the rotor is not available as a separate piece from Buell, you have to buy the whole assembly. So it doesn't just slap on.
Your primary is 35T front, 56T rear. A Buell XB12 primary is 38T front, 57T rear. A Buell XB9 primary is 34T front, 57T rear
So in a nutshell, if you tried to slap on a Buell front sprocket/rotor assembly, your chain will either be too small or too big.
It's possible that a stock XB9 chain with the XB9 front sprocket would solve the problem, but I don't know. If you went that route and it fits, you'd be gearing your bike down somewhat.
Another alternative is to move an XB rotor hat from it's stock front sprocket over to your your stock front sprocket. You'd have to take out all the bolts and then press the two apart. I've pressed those off before, for race bikes without charging systems, and it's a bit tricky to do without damaging the rotor hat. It takes a fair bit of force and it likes to distort the rotor. Make sure it's well supported.
#14
08-16-2010, 01:45 PM
This is what Aaron (aswracing) from NRHS had to say about it. PART of the question I asked.
I'm thinking maybe ACCEL Single Phase might be the way to go. lol
Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Aaron,
1: Is there any truth to the quotes below?
2: Are they plug and play on a 96 Sportster?
3: Also will it fit on a 2004C?
His Reply,
aswracing
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
I'm thinking maybe ACCEL Single Phase might be the way to go. lol
Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Aaron,
1: Is there any truth to the quotes below?
2: Are they plug and play on a 96 Sportster?
3: Also will it fit on a 2004C?
His Reply,
aswracing
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
Another factor I'm looking at now, is that the HD regulators are all very old school "shunt" type. That means that the stator is always running at 100% because the regulator shunts any excess current to ground. This leads to a lot of excess heat in the stator coils.
There are several manufactures that make replacement "Series" type regulators that don't leave the stator dumping to ground all the time and that takes the load and heat off the stator coils. This would be good for you, but unfortunately bad for me so far, in that all of the Series regulators I can find for Sporties, are for 2003 and earlier.
I've heard good things about the Accel stators, and mating one of them with a Series regulator may be the ticket.
I'm still digging on the 3 phase, higher amp systems though, as I'd like to have more headroom for running heated gear.
- (That and my cigarette lighter spikes to 20 amps when you first push it in - LOL)
Last edited by cHarley; 08-16-2010 at 01:51 PM.
#15
08-16-2010, 04:55 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Yuh Aaron always goes in depth with his answers.
I'm more than likely going to go Accel just to get the ball rolling. (October is coming lol). Plus I may still need to change my speedometer if it doesn't go back to normal. As far as the self canceling directionals, I can live with out them, Never had them anyways when I started riding and sort of hate it when they turn off in 9 seconds anyways. Seems like I'm always turning them back on.
Thanks for the info on the "Series" type regulators. I've read some stuff on them and others. But after awhile you know how too much info is more confusing than none.....
I'm more than likely going to go Accel just to get the ball rolling. (October is coming lol). Plus I may still need to change my speedometer if it doesn't go back to normal. As far as the self canceling directionals, I can live with out them, Never had them anyways when I started riding and sort of hate it when they turn off in 9 seconds anyways. Seems like I'm always turning them back on.
Thanks for the info on the "Series" type regulators. I've read some stuff on them and others. But after awhile you know how too much info is more confusing than none.....
#16
08-16-2010, 08:45 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Man you opened a can of worms cHarley. Now why the hell would Accel have this listed? Plugs match up too.
ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATOR
ACCEL Black Electronic Voltage Regulators for Harley-Davidson applications do not require any re-wiring or special mounting. Heavy Duty solid-state circuitry and years of technology produce a regulator that has quality second to none and reliability that you can depend on year after year. They are made in the U.S.A. and are covered by a limited replacement warranty. OE#: 74523-94, APPLICATION: 1994-2003 Sportster w/ 32 amp alternator.
Model Number: 201130B
ACCEL Black Electronic Voltage Regulators for Harley-Davidson applications do not require any re-wiring or special mounting. Heavy Duty solid-state circuitry and years of technology produce a regulator that has quality second to none and reliability that you can depend on year after year. They are made in the U.S.A. and are covered by a limited replacement warranty. OE#: 74523-94, APPLICATION: 1994-2003 Sportster w/ 32 amp alternator.
Model Number: 201130B
#17
08-16-2010, 09:09 PM
#18
08-16-2010, 09:15 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
#19
08-16-2010, 09:23 PM
#20
08-16-2010, 09:30 PM
Ultimate HDF Member