I went with the standard progressive springs. The springs themselves are shorter than the stock springs, but when paired with the supplied spacers they are the same length.

When I read the instruction, Progressive suggested 1" of preload. So I cut some PVC pipe so they stuck a little bit above the top of the fork tube and installed them - they were about 1 3/4" shorter than the supplied spacers. I just used some Drag Specialities 5W fork oil. I noticed that the forks sagged quite a bit and the amount of available travel was smaller. I wasn't too impressed with the results, I think they were too soft (too little preload) and I was still seeing fork dive when braking.

Yesterday I replaced the shorter spacers with some cut to the length of the supplied spacer. The set I got with my springs were made of thin metal, I used the same PVC pipe for the second set. What a difference!!

The amount of travel is at least as much as stock and the ride is much better. It did raise the front of the bike a bit, but as I'm preparing to put on some 3 degree raked trees, the extra length might be a good thing. Once the trees are installed I'll decide on whether I need to slide the forks up in the trees a bit.

 

I too have gone with the progressive springs (standard height) and the Superbrace. Like Wldhog, I added these at different times and agree the springs got rid of the mushy/softness feeling, but didn't really do anything for cornering. I decided to add the Superbrace to reduce the wobbles I felt up around 70-75 mph. I don't have any experience with other brands, but this took about 5 mins. to install and wow what a difference. Some reviews on their website said they could feel the difference pulling out of the driveway, I didn't experience quite that level of difference, but definitely during cornering and manuvering at speed, it just feels like it actually responds now, not that sluggish/delayed feeling. As for the wobbles, gone. A little pricey for a piece of metal, but hey it works.

 

How difficult is a DIY on front springs? tools needed? possible with out a jack??

done everything thus far (quite well i might add), want to stick with the wrench turning.

thanks

 

if you're into no-compromise, you might consider swapping out the front end for a standard-length front end... raised into the clamps so its still low, but you'll maintain the suspension travel.

or, you could keep your lowers and build up a set by ordering the parts listed in the manual.

either way, get the right springs for your weight and things will improve. the ricor drop-in valves are supposed to be fantastic, and if i could afford a pair, i'd give them a go.

the fork brace might stiffen things up but on these shorty front ends i'm not sure its really needed. maybe if you've got excess stiction in one fork.

 

Really easy. Only tool you dont have is the socket to take off the nut on top of the forks. I went to my local Harbor Freight and bought a set of 6point impact sockets they had on special for $20 as it had the needed size.
You will want a new set of plugs as when you take out them out they tend to strip. The plugs are the at the bottom for draining out the oil. $5 at J$P...
See this thread I posted a while back.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-fork-oil.html

 

I just had the springs done with heavy fork oil and Holy SH*T what a difference!!!!! I gotta check out this fork brace now!

 

So Far,,,
I added 3/4" front preload, 20wt SE performance "Heavy",,thats 20wt.
Front end dive is way less and bike sits level, still on stock fork springs n R shocks.
Handles great,,stiffer for shure,,
The Superbrace was a biggie.
Watch for fork knock, the 20wt Is a bit heavy for colder weather,
Small fast bumps you will feel.
I will Probly go to 15wt this fall.

Remember,, lower frame rails level or lower to the rear with you on it.
You don't want to Introduce a Hi-speed wobble.

 

I just put a set of Ricor Intiminators in my wife's low model and WOW what a difference. The funny thing I found was that the front forks had two different oils from the factory one leg had red ATF type fluid and the other leg had a thicker normal colored fork oil

 

Obviously stops fork flex,,
Stock forks bow outwards in the middle as compression starts.
This causes stiction, resistance to fork action can be uneven
from side to side,,thats a wobble.