trnewman - Glad you got it all figured out man. I've got v&h slip ons (soon to be sikpipes double barrels) velocity stack, tank lift/wire tuck, removed front fender, belt guard and pulley guard, smoked front turn signals.

The mods i plan on doing are either mini apes/drag bars, springer seat from redtail leather, either chopped rear fender or front fender fitted to the rear wheel. As soon as my warrenty runs out i will be welding in a hardtail and making a custom oil tank, plus doing a 90cui big bore kit. If they make an open belt drive primary for sportsters i would like to look into that as well. I've got alot of plans for this bike

 

Happen to have links to the open primary or the weld-in rigid kit?
I was at a Harley Dealer looking through the Drag Specialties catalog this morning and saw a long cylindrical oil bag I'd like to get, but where to hide the battery? Thought to maybe put it behind a chin scoop, but we'll see. I'd like to drop my seat a good 4 or 5"s ideally, but I guess I'll get to the exact numbers when I see what I can do.
Any ideas on relocating the battery?

 

The position of the ignition screams "rattle me to death". Bad idea....

 

exactly my approach.

 

What would the vibration do to the coil and ignition? I'm planning on using this setup.

 

The vibration hasnt killed mine yet . .

My key does seem to get stuck in the ignition from time to time but it did that even when it was new and the ign. was still under the tank.

 

I've changed my mind about the primary, every kit i found that would fit a sporty just didnt look right. Not really worth the money either.

Moving your battery may be more work than you think. it seems pretty stuffed up in there and i dont see it fitting or staying in the chin spoiler for long before a bump in the road causes it to fall off. Soulds like you may want to go with an after market frame or hardtail kit.

Some AM frames move the battery to right infront of the rear wheel a few inches from the ground. and leaves the space under the seat for a nice oil tank.

 

I keep trying to find the answer to this with no real luck...I tried to raise my tank yesterday, but the tunnel seems just big enough to fit over the backbone. With my wires on top of the backbone and coming down just before the rear mount, I couldn't get the tank to lower down any. Initially I couldn't get the tank on enough to bolt the rear mount back in. Thought about raising the whole tank up, but I'm not sure I like that. All else fails, I might order a Nightster raw tank from customchrome or someone and widen the tunnel so I can run the wiring along side...we'll see.

 

Are you trying to do the tank lift on a 48 or your 03 883R?

I had the same issue with making the wires fit which is why i went with a 2 1/2" lift. I've heard of people cutting all of the factory harness connectors off and soldering the wires back together to make the wire tuck easier.

All i can really say is try to get the biggest connectors taped to the top tube of the frame as close to the neck as possible. This space will have the most room since you are going to be lifting the front of the tank. I still have room under my tank to conceal a little goodies from time to time . . .

 

My 883R. I got everything to lay pretty flat and cleaned it up real nice, but still couldn't get the tank to go down. Do the wires come out from under the tank just in front of the rear mount? I just can't find close-up pics of that.
And I'm over my posts but still can't view some pics...must not be cleared yet
Thanks Moustache