Changing Exhaust gaskets!
#21
07-14-2010, 01:49 AM
Road Captain
I have worked with both kinds and I much prefer the SE units too!
Hey MechsHands, I DO know from experience. After I removed the drag pipes that originally came on my ‘99 XL883 when I first bought it and replaced them with the RB Racing 2 into 1 exhaust pipes I was just giving it a test ride (Yeah, it was a LONG test ride too) on the highway checking out the increased horsepower of the 2 into 1 pipes and the front nuts came loose enough for the front exhaust pipe to leak air and WHAM, the exhaust valve twisted in the head in the open position and I limped the poor thing home on the one rear cylinder. Poor baby! If you have to take one head off, you might as well take off the other head too! I put in new light weight valves and new valve guides and the new heady duty valve racing springs and lapped them all in and did a leak down test to check everything out before I put it all back together again. Light weight adjustable pushrods and new removable covers and now she is back on the road again and better than before. Next time, I guess I should take a much shorter test ride. (Although a set of S&S roller rockers would be a nice Christmas present.)
Hey MechsHands, I DO know from experience. After I removed the drag pipes that originally came on my ‘99 XL883 when I first bought it and replaced them with the RB Racing 2 into 1 exhaust pipes I was just giving it a test ride (Yeah, it was a LONG test ride too) on the highway checking out the increased horsepower of the 2 into 1 pipes and the front nuts came loose enough for the front exhaust pipe to leak air and WHAM, the exhaust valve twisted in the head in the open position and I limped the poor thing home on the one rear cylinder. Poor baby! If you have to take one head off, you might as well take off the other head too! I put in new light weight valves and new valve guides and the new heady duty valve racing springs and lapped them all in and did a leak down test to check everything out before I put it all back together again. Light weight adjustable pushrods and new removable covers and now she is back on the road again and better than before. Next time, I guess I should take a much shorter test ride. (Although a set of S&S roller rockers would be a nice Christmas present.)
#22
07-14-2010, 07:58 AM
I know this thread is getting old, but I though I'd pass along some comments:
I thought I'd be smart and replace the nuts with stainless steel to keep them from rusting to the studs. BAD IDEA. A little rust between the nuts and studs works better than any lock washer, and the nuts won't come loose unexpectedly. I've never had any problem breaking the steel nuts loose if they're sprayed first with a good penetrating solvent.
I don't know about them being easier as much as they are a better gasket. The stock gaskets are fatter (have more material in them) and when you tighten down the manifold nuts and compress the gasket, some of the excess gasket material will push out into the exhaust port. This excess material in the port will then start to build up carbon deposits, restricting the exhaust port.
I've used star washers in the past with good results, but I haven't tried crush washers.
I've recently switched to using 12pt self locking aircraft nuts. They are high temp rated and the reduced size of the nut head means a smaller socket size, which makes it easier to get the socket in the tight space.
Purchased Here - Pack of 10 for $13.50 shipped
I thought I'd be smart and replace the nuts with stainless steel to keep them from rusting to the studs. BAD IDEA. A little rust between the nuts and studs works better than any lock washer, and the nuts won't come loose unexpectedly. I've never had any problem breaking the steel nuts loose if they're sprayed first with a good penetrating solvent.
are those screaming eagle gaskets easier than the stock ones? i had a set of those stock ones and boy did i have a tough time getting them in. I think i'm going to say screw them and get the screaming eagle one and just switch them out with that. sportypig do you have a part number for the cross over gaskets? thanks!
I've used star washers in the past with good results, but I haven't tried crush washers.
I've recently switched to using 12pt self locking aircraft nuts. They are high temp rated and the reduced size of the nut head means a smaller socket size, which makes it easier to get the socket in the tight space.
Purchased Here - Pack of 10 for $13.50 shipped
Last edited by cHarley; 07-14-2010 at 08:18 AM.
#23
07-14-2010, 10:54 AM
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