'09 Nightster Upgrade Questions
#1
'09 Nightster Upgrade Questions
I'm looking into getting my first bike, '09 Nightster w/ about 2300 miles on it from our local HD dealership. I like the stock sound, but it doesn't really offer the feel I expected when I started looking at getting a Harley. I've been researching on the forums here and all over the internet for different set ups that will boost performance and improve the sound of the bike overall, but I had a few questions still:
1) I'm lookin at the Competition Series Exhaust from V&H. I love the sound and the look (blacked out of course), and from what I've read they do give a decent boost in performance. If I were to purchase these, or any full exhaust system for that matter, what other upgrades would I need to make to the bike?
2) I've read a lot about the PCV and SE Super Pro Tuner and stuff. If I'm having my bike tuned by a performance shop or the dealer, do I need to purchase any of that stuff? It seems like it's for doing tuning on your own. Won't the dealer have that equipment?
3) Air filters: is there really a benefit over the forward facing cone type as compared to just replacing the stock with a nice SE or one of the other kits that is simply a circular filter?
4) Stage 1: As I've read, this upgrade involves changin the air filter, the pipes, the EFI mapping, and possibly the ignition...is all that necessary to get the pipes and engine breathin properly with the new set up? Also, what do FuelPak systems do? I've seen those online but can't figure it out.
5) Cost: I've found the CSE by V&H for 709 (even blacked out) on RideShack...that's the cheapest I've seen it, and that's minus shipping. Is it cheaper going into the dealer and having them order it for me and do the install? Should I order and install it myself and have them tune it? Will that void any warranty on the bike if I don't get them to install it? Also, what would installation and tuning cost for an exhaust upgrade, on average? Basically, if I got this exhaust system, what cost would I be looking at in addition to the pipes to make sure I'm not going to screw my engine by changing the flow dynamics (changing the back pressure, etc.) and to ensure they're installed and tuned properly?
I know it's a lot, but I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to bikes. I'm a bit of a gear head though, so I have the skills to definitely do some tweaking and installing myself, but I don't wanna void any warranties (I'm prolly getting the ESP w/ it too).
Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
V/r,
ARH
ENS USN
1) I'm lookin at the Competition Series Exhaust from V&H. I love the sound and the look (blacked out of course), and from what I've read they do give a decent boost in performance. If I were to purchase these, or any full exhaust system for that matter, what other upgrades would I need to make to the bike?
2) I've read a lot about the PCV and SE Super Pro Tuner and stuff. If I'm having my bike tuned by a performance shop or the dealer, do I need to purchase any of that stuff? It seems like it's for doing tuning on your own. Won't the dealer have that equipment?
3) Air filters: is there really a benefit over the forward facing cone type as compared to just replacing the stock with a nice SE or one of the other kits that is simply a circular filter?
4) Stage 1: As I've read, this upgrade involves changin the air filter, the pipes, the EFI mapping, and possibly the ignition...is all that necessary to get the pipes and engine breathin properly with the new set up? Also, what do FuelPak systems do? I've seen those online but can't figure it out.
5) Cost: I've found the CSE by V&H for 709 (even blacked out) on RideShack...that's the cheapest I've seen it, and that's minus shipping. Is it cheaper going into the dealer and having them order it for me and do the install? Should I order and install it myself and have them tune it? Will that void any warranty on the bike if I don't get them to install it? Also, what would installation and tuning cost for an exhaust upgrade, on average? Basically, if I got this exhaust system, what cost would I be looking at in addition to the pipes to make sure I'm not going to screw my engine by changing the flow dynamics (changing the back pressure, etc.) and to ensure they're installed and tuned properly?
I know it's a lot, but I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to bikes. I'm a bit of a gear head though, so I have the skills to definitely do some tweaking and installing myself, but I don't wanna void any warranties (I'm prolly getting the ESP w/ it too).
Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
V/r,
ARH
ENS USN
#2
#3
Most of your questions revolve around FI so I'll just say this. Yes if you do air filter and exhaust mods then you'll need some sort of fuel management. Back in the day things were much easier (and cheaper) just swapping out jets and main needle height. Today, not so much. Depending on how much of exhaust and air filter you go depends on if you can get by with just Stage 1. I would say with full exhaust and you can forget about just using the Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 remap. I have just slip-on V&H straight shot exhaust (w/o baffles) and Stage 1 filter/remap and it's on the verge of needing a piggyback fuel management like Fuel-Pak, Power Commander, etc.
As for tuning, I don't know how it is in your area but here the local HD shops don't have a dyno. They also like to charge out the a$$ in labor. I would take it to a reputable car/bike tuner who has access to a motorcycle dyno and some familiararity to the tuner. These tuners aren't overly complex but you will need to be on a dyno to get consistant and safe tunes for your bike and to squezze out every bit of HP you can from it. Most of these tuners come with a "base map" that is pre-flashed or programmed to roughly give you a good map for your mods. But they aren't optimal and for that, you need a dyno. Doing "road test" runs to tune the bike isn't what I would call safe or pratical for the bike.
Yes these bikes, or any HD are pretty tame and quiet in stock form. Add on slip-on's or full exhaust and they come alive and will give you that HD feel.
Have fun, good luck and ride safe when you get your bike.
As for tuning, I don't know how it is in your area but here the local HD shops don't have a dyno. They also like to charge out the a$$ in labor. I would take it to a reputable car/bike tuner who has access to a motorcycle dyno and some familiararity to the tuner. These tuners aren't overly complex but you will need to be on a dyno to get consistant and safe tunes for your bike and to squezze out every bit of HP you can from it. Most of these tuners come with a "base map" that is pre-flashed or programmed to roughly give you a good map for your mods. But they aren't optimal and for that, you need a dyno. Doing "road test" runs to tune the bike isn't what I would call safe or pratical for the bike.
Yes these bikes, or any HD are pretty tame and quiet in stock form. Add on slip-on's or full exhaust and they come alive and will give you that HD feel.
Have fun, good luck and ride safe when you get your bike.
Last edited by haknslash; 07-04-2010 at 10:13 AM.
#6
#7
Most of your questions revolve around FI so I'll just say this. Yes if you do air filter and exhaust mods then you'll need some sort of fuel management. Back in the day things were much easier (and cheaper) just swapping out jets and main needle height. Today, not so much. Depending on how much of exhaust and air filter you go depends on if you can get by with just Stage 1. I would say with full exhaust and you can forget about just using the Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 remap. I have just slip-on V&H straight shot exhaust (w/o baffles) and Stage 1 filter/remap and it's on the verge of needing a piggyback fuel management like Fuel-Pak, Power Commander, etc.
As for tuning, I don't know how it is in your area but here the local HD shops don't have a dyno. They also like to charge out the a$$ in labor. I would take it to a reputable car/bike tuner who has access to a motorcycle dyno and some familiararity to the tuner. These tuners aren't overly complex but you will need to be on a dyno to get consistant and safe tunes for your bike and to squezze out every bit of HP you can from it. Most of these tuners come with a "base map" that is pre-flashed or programmed to roughly give you a good map for your mods. But they aren't optimal and for that, you need a dyno. Doing "road test" runs to tune the bike isn't what I would call safe or pratical for the bike.
Yes these bikes, or any HD are pretty tame and quiet in stock form. Add on slip-on's or full exhaust and they come alive and will give you that HD feel.
Have fun, good luck and ride safe when you get your bike.
As for tuning, I don't know how it is in your area but here the local HD shops don't have a dyno. They also like to charge out the a$$ in labor. I would take it to a reputable car/bike tuner who has access to a motorcycle dyno and some familiararity to the tuner. These tuners aren't overly complex but you will need to be on a dyno to get consistant and safe tunes for your bike and to squezze out every bit of HP you can from it. Most of these tuners come with a "base map" that is pre-flashed or programmed to roughly give you a good map for your mods. But they aren't optimal and for that, you need a dyno. Doing "road test" runs to tune the bike isn't what I would call safe or pratical for the bike.
Yes these bikes, or any HD are pretty tame and quiet in stock form. Add on slip-on's or full exhaust and they come alive and will give you that HD feel.
Have fun, good luck and ride safe when you get your bike.
checked the local dealer, they actually do have a dyno and 4 licensed tuners, so while it may be more expensive, it might be cheaper to roll all of it together when i get my initial loan. and yeah, i think with a full exhaust i'd really need to upgrade the EFI w/ a PC or Screamin Eagle or something. i'm gonna go into the dealer today or tomorrow to ask their specialist some more questions. if i don't get it done there, i might check a couple other performance shops around town that do this stuff too.
thanks for the help!
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#8
First bike?
Maybe you should just ride the stock bike around some first.
Just drill or bash out the baffles in the exhaust to get more sound, and ride the bike a year before dropping $3000.00 more into it before you even ride it.
Get a good seat and shocks first, the bike has way more power then you need, stock it will leave almost any car in your dust, will do at least 110 mph, both of which are enough to kill you quick if you are not a very good rider.
Think about it.
You may not enjoy riding as much as you think, or have much time, or regret dropping $20,000.00 into a bike (bike, tax, tags, insurance, gear, upgrades, and find you need to sell it and can only get $8000.00 for it or less.
Or you crash, loose your job and income, and have a $20,000.00 loan on something worth under $8000.00.
Motorcycles, like boats can be nothing but money pits, so before dropping all that coin, maybe try it first?
What is wrong with used 883?
They are sporty, fast enough to get many tickets, the price is low to start, and you wont loose much if you trade up in a year.
Or, go the other way and skip the girly sportsters and get right into a big twin done up to 180 HP, that way there is no loss in trading up, as there is no up.
Brett
Brett
Maybe you should just ride the stock bike around some first.
Just drill or bash out the baffles in the exhaust to get more sound, and ride the bike a year before dropping $3000.00 more into it before you even ride it.
Get a good seat and shocks first, the bike has way more power then you need, stock it will leave almost any car in your dust, will do at least 110 mph, both of which are enough to kill you quick if you are not a very good rider.
Think about it.
You may not enjoy riding as much as you think, or have much time, or regret dropping $20,000.00 into a bike (bike, tax, tags, insurance, gear, upgrades, and find you need to sell it and can only get $8000.00 for it or less.
Or you crash, loose your job and income, and have a $20,000.00 loan on something worth under $8000.00.
Motorcycles, like boats can be nothing but money pits, so before dropping all that coin, maybe try it first?
What is wrong with used 883?
They are sporty, fast enough to get many tickets, the price is low to start, and you wont loose much if you trade up in a year.
Or, go the other way and skip the girly sportsters and get right into a big twin done up to 180 HP, that way there is no loss in trading up, as there is no up.
Brett
Brett
#9
So this would be your first bike. How much have you ridden before? What other bikes have you ridden to compare it to? Hvae you ridden the bike you are looking at?
What "feel" did you expect? These aren't crotch rockets. Although the sporty does have some good get up and go. You also say you like the sound of the bike, yet also want to improve it? Are you really sure of what you want or like?
A sportster series is only a "girly" bike by those who are ignorant or clueless, or when a lady gets on one.
I do however agree with brett about riding the bike around and getting a bunch of miles under you. Start making a list of add ons then prioritize them. Go with comfort and feel vs performance. Air shocks are a nice upgrade. Go to bike nights and see what others have etc. Ride with other sportster owners. Also remember with mods that unless you find someone that wants exactly what you have, you will not get out nearly what you paid for them. Especially with performance type upgrades.
I would not settle for an iron 883 vs a nightster though. If you feel the nightster is lacking in performance then the 883 certainly will be. I've gotten used to riding my 1200 over the last year. Then I get on the new 883 my Mrs got and I crank the throttle and wonder where the power is. You would certainly outgrow an 883.
MH
What "feel" did you expect? These aren't crotch rockets. Although the sporty does have some good get up and go. You also say you like the sound of the bike, yet also want to improve it? Are you really sure of what you want or like?
A sportster series is only a "girly" bike by those who are ignorant or clueless, or when a lady gets on one.
I do however agree with brett about riding the bike around and getting a bunch of miles under you. Start making a list of add ons then prioritize them. Go with comfort and feel vs performance. Air shocks are a nice upgrade. Go to bike nights and see what others have etc. Ride with other sportster owners. Also remember with mods that unless you find someone that wants exactly what you have, you will not get out nearly what you paid for them. Especially with performance type upgrades.
I would not settle for an iron 883 vs a nightster though. If you feel the nightster is lacking in performance then the 883 certainly will be. I've gotten used to riding my 1200 over the last year. Then I get on the new 883 my Mrs got and I crank the throttle and wonder where the power is. You would certainly outgrow an 883.
MH
#10
I agree with the idea of riding the bike stock for awhile. Not only will you get comfortable with the bike, but you'll really appreciate your upgrades when you do them. If you upgrade the bike right off the showroom floor you'll never really have an idea of what you've gained.
I also would go straight to the 1200. My 1200 is my first bike and even with exhaust and an AC, I'm now looking at doing cams and ignition. While the 883 may have decent "pep", I'd surely be wanting more, and in a hurry.
I also would go straight to the 1200. My 1200 is my first bike and even with exhaust and an AC, I'm now looking at doing cams and ignition. While the 883 may have decent "pep", I'd surely be wanting more, and in a hurry.