Loctite Screws on Sissy Bar,---HELP!!!!!
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#8
Yeah this. That's why god made extractors.
You say the bike came that way so do you really know if loctite was used? They may be just over torqued, which is just as bad. If heat doesn't loosen them up you are gonna have to drill.
You say the bike came that way so do you really know if loctite was used? They may be just over torqued, which is just as bad. If heat doesn't loosen them up you are gonna have to drill.
#9
I suggest that before drilling it out you first get a cheap manual impact driver with the correct size bit and try that. You can probably find one at the hardware store for $20, and you can certainly buy a Craftsman for more like $35 (I think).
You set it to loosen, install an impact bit (probably comes with the driver), hold it in the screw, and hit the other end with a hammer. I have used it on old bikes where there was absolutely no way the screw (a countersunk No. 2 Phillips) was coming out without it, and it worked great.
If/when you re-install the sissy bar, make sure to use Loctite. I learned that lesson the hard way with my sissy bar on my Sportster. No damage done, but I lost two countersunk Allen heads, and only discovered that by chance before the other remaining two had a chance to work their way out.
You set it to loosen, install an impact bit (probably comes with the driver), hold it in the screw, and hit the other end with a hammer. I have used it on old bikes where there was absolutely no way the screw (a countersunk No. 2 Phillips) was coming out without it, and it worked great.
If/when you re-install the sissy bar, make sure to use Loctite. I learned that lesson the hard way with my sissy bar on my Sportster. No damage done, but I lost two countersunk Allen heads, and only discovered that by chance before the other remaining two had a chance to work their way out.
#10