Having stalling / Stuck in gear problems? Any ideas?
#11
RE:
I'll definitely check the rear caliper and bearing if/when it happens again. That could very well be the reason for the squat. Now I just have to figure out why my motor lost power. I guess I should take it into the dealership, but I'm afraid that it won't do it for them, as most days it rides fine
CK
CK
#12
I'll definitely check the rear caliper and bearing if/when it happens again. That could very well be the reason for the squat. Now I just have to figure out why my motor lost power. I guess I should take it into the dealership, but I'm afraid that it won't do it for them, as most days it rides fine
CK
CK
#13
squat
Put you bike in an upper gear, idle it up and let the clutch out slow -- bike will squat. I realize there can be many mechanical things wrong but with a new bike with enough miles that prove it was built correct usually there would be no brake issues for a long time. You cannot just read down a list but of course we must all realize we are just an opinion from a far distance.
#14
RE:
GRF000, thanks for the input as well. Maybe it WAS, actually, stuck in fourth gear, and this is a transmission issue. Wouldn't the bike roll when the clutch was pulled in though? It wouldn't budge at all. I am extremely confused, I just don't want this to happen at freeway speeds. Luckily, it has been on surface roads so far.
CK
CK
#15
#16
I really like the binding brake idea, that will feel like a power loss, and eventualy lock up, then will cool down fast and work normal.
It should cook up the disk though, with signs of overheating.
If the pedal or master cylinder does not return far enough, the vent back hole is blocked, and if the brake heats up, the pressure forces the pads against the disk, which makes things even hotter, to the point moisture in the brake fluid can boil, etc.
With a bike that gets low miles, things can stick, bind up, build up moisture and not cook it out.
A 10 year old car with 20,000 miles on it is usualy a worse buy than one with 100,000 miles on it.
Sitting is not good...low use is not good, short trips are not good.
I did a 9000 mile trip on a Triumph which ran flawlessly the entire time.
I got home and parked the bike for a few weeks, and when I went to use it, the speedo drive crapped out, I had key switch problems, and the rear master cylinder froze up (rust).
The back brakes started binding when they got warm...
Brett
It should cook up the disk though, with signs of overheating.
If the pedal or master cylinder does not return far enough, the vent back hole is blocked, and if the brake heats up, the pressure forces the pads against the disk, which makes things even hotter, to the point moisture in the brake fluid can boil, etc.
With a bike that gets low miles, things can stick, bind up, build up moisture and not cook it out.
A 10 year old car with 20,000 miles on it is usualy a worse buy than one with 100,000 miles on it.
Sitting is not good...low use is not good, short trips are not good.
I did a 9000 mile trip on a Triumph which ran flawlessly the entire time.
I got home and parked the bike for a few weeks, and when I went to use it, the speedo drive crapped out, I had key switch problems, and the rear master cylinder froze up (rust).
The back brakes started binding when they got warm...
Brett
#17
Fixed! I think....
Thanks all for the great ideas and advice. I think I finally figured things out. My right footpeg was loose, and rotating, and I DIDN'T EVEN NOTICE!!!! When it rotated, it would press lightly on my rear break pedal, causing the "loss of power". Obviously not really a loss of power as much as a locked up brake! Just to be safe, I changed out all fluids, including brake, and everything seems to be running smoothly. It's always something stupid isn't it!?!?!
Thanks,
CK
Thanks,
CK
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02-22-2016 06:37 PM