I saw this auction for drag bars, risers, and speedometer relocation kit. The price looks good, but what do I know.

Is it a good price, and would it look good on an 09 Sportster Low?

 

Anyone with an opinion on these?

 

Seems ok, if that's what you like.

 

I had a similar set-up on my old 883 and liked it. But I'm only 5'9", it really depends on how comfortable you want to be on long rides and how tall you are.

 

I'm 5'10 so height shouldn't be too bad.

Wondering if they'll clear the tank fine, which they seem to. I also shouldn't need to change the cables. It looks like a simple install, could be fun.

 

Yea the switch should be pretty clean and easy then.

 

Thanks for the opinion!

I ordered them, as well as some new mirrors. Bit by bit it's changing from a Sportster to MY Sportster.

 

Here is how the factory riser and drags look on my 1200 Custom. I love the look, gives it that mean forward lean along with the forward controls.

 

I recently went through all of this changing up my wifes '08 XL883L. Bear with me because the link you provided wouldn't open on my work computer (eBay banned at work). I had to use 4" straight risers. At first I bought the 4" pull back risers and no matter what adjustments I made, the drag bars would always hit the tank. With the straight risers, there is about 1/2" clearance between the tank and bars. I relocated the speedometer on top of the headlight cover. The bolt pattern is the same and I just used two 1/2" deep well sockets as the risers for that and bought some new bolts from the hardware store. I only relocated the speedo because she wanted a pretty chrome top clamp on her handlebars and those don't work with the speedo. (That and she wouldn't let me move it to the left side under the tank).

When you take off your controls and are reinstalling them on your new bars, be very careful not to install either set wrong. The brake lever has a pointed arm that is supposed to go ON TOP of the brake light switch tit and the clutch lever has the same set up, but I think it's a safety switch not allowing you to start in gear without the clutch pulled. You can (trust me) accidentally get that lever just under part of the switch tit and the first time you squeeze that lever, you will hear a crack followed by the piece of that tit you just broke off rendering your switch useless. (your brake light will always be on *bad* or start in gear without the clutch pulled *whoop-de-doo*). Two hours of searching the garage floor and a healty coat of epoxy later I took care of that self induced problem and the brake light works again. The other thing you will have to do is change the clocking of your front brake hydraulic line on the front master cylinder. The angle of the dangle is going to change drastically from the lay back low bars to the drag bars and you will have to move the hydraulic connection to the other side of the master cylinders metal stop. This is going to introduce air into your front brake system and you will have to bleed your front brake. No big deal, just don't let any of the brake fluid get on your paint! Sorry if you already knew all of this... just thought I would chime in and help if I could.

BTW, my entire set up without including the 4" pullbacks I should'nt have bought was about $200. Good luck!

 

You will love the drag bars. I love the looks of them the most and for me i like the feel as well. IMO it's drags or nothing