well I ordered an exhaust so I decided to drill the baffles outa the stockers till they arrived. then I heard it and um.... canceled the order for the new muffs, they sound great with almost no backfire. question is should I have it tuned to dial it in or what are my options? how much does the tune usually cost?

 

You should of saved those pipes, you'll need them when the EPA gets their way.

 

+1 - I'd have left them stock.

There's no point in having anything "tuned" if you still have the the stock A/C. Nothing more in = nothing more out. There is also nothing to "tune" on the stock ECM.

 

sweet, thanks for the info!

 

I have mine drilled. No need to tune it unless you get a breather. I love the way mine sounds also. not too loud so my neighbors still like me!

 

well according to the dealer you just voided your warranty so dont take it there.

 

Maybe I'm a little naive, but my dealer told me I can do what I want to the bike as long as I don't go in the engine...

 

from my understanding there are laws that prevent a dealer from blanket denial of warranty. To deny warranty work the dealer would have to prove that the modification directly caused the problem. If you have actual legal information to back that I voided my warranty I would be interested in further details.

And to Marchallk, I couldn't agree more, it sounds great!

 

Ok, just to clarify, you removed the baffles completely? I am VERY interested in doing this. How many mile were on the bike? Mine has ~200, should I break it in first or does it matter?

 

well first I want to say I am by no means a mechanic, I used to fix up cars n sell em for extra cash so I'm not completely useless with tools either though.

That being said I did choose to wait till 1000 miles to drill the baffles out to allow for the bike to "break in" on a side note I changed the fluids at 500 and 1000 and even though break in says only 1000 and I'm glad I did fluids were rough lookin and a few bolts were loose.

The how to

I used a 1 1/4 hole bit with an extension, hardest part of the process was getting the muffs off the headers. some lube and patience goes a long way. loosening the head bolts also helps alot. once the muffs are removed take & secure one in a vice (make sure to use towels so you don't scratch em) drill out the metal with the drill and 1 1/4 bit slowly and again use lube. repeat process on second muff. It didn't take long as the metal is about as thick as a standard washer. after drilling em out clean out any metal shavings, put everything back together and re-torque everything down. start er up n smile!

::: this is what I did to my 2010 48, other models and years may be different.