My 883/1200 conversion looks to be heading towar another rebuild!!!
#11
Thanks for the info guys. . . part of the problem might be that it has been rebuilt once, and there was glazing on the cylinder walls and that went to the machine shop to get "trimmed off"
Im not sure what you guys are talking about, about two things though . . i keep reading references to indy? and torque plates? im new at this so bear with me if you could. . .
And I have taken it back to the guy multiple times he was a family friend who did awesome work on my dads bikes and other local bikes, but he wouldn't take any responsibility for my bikes issues
And i didn't upgrade the heads yet because i was going to school full time working as much as possible and building a toyota rock crawler so funds were tight
Now that i may have to break into this motor again though i may just save up some cash and do it all from scratch maybe get a zippers kit or something to that affect
and does anyone have ideas on why its only the rear cylinder the first time it started drinking oil when i went to get it rebuilt we compression tested it and it was only about 20 percent efficient and now that is the cylinder that went again, and it has been the cylinder that has always backfired out its pipe ever since the first swap . . .
Im not sure what you guys are talking about, about two things though . . i keep reading references to indy? and torque plates? im new at this so bear with me if you could. . .
And I have taken it back to the guy multiple times he was a family friend who did awesome work on my dads bikes and other local bikes, but he wouldn't take any responsibility for my bikes issues
And i didn't upgrade the heads yet because i was going to school full time working as much as possible and building a toyota rock crawler so funds were tight
Now that i may have to break into this motor again though i may just save up some cash and do it all from scratch maybe get a zippers kit or something to that affect
and does anyone have ideas on why its only the rear cylinder the first time it started drinking oil when i went to get it rebuilt we compression tested it and it was only about 20 percent efficient and now that is the cylinder that went again, and it has been the cylinder that has always backfired out its pipe ever since the first swap . . .
http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_...ightness.shtml
Read that, see the pics, notice the items that are bolted to the jugs...those are torque plates. They are bolted on BEFORE boring the cylinders. They simulate the torque and distortion the jugs will bear once installed. If they aren't used then you may end up cylinders that are out of round all over the place once installed and torqued to spec.
Where did you get these conversion pistons and rings? What brand?
Last edited by themac5150; 04-27-2010 at 02:25 PM.
#12
#13
So then a torque plat is used (or should have been used) during the boring of my cylinders, and if they weren't that could be one of the reasons my rear cylinders rings are so easily blown . . . this blows haha
and I'll defineatly look into NHRS when I rebuild my bike I'm always looking other quality sources to buy parts from!
and I'll defineatly look into NHRS when I rebuild my bike I'm always looking other quality sources to buy parts from!
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