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20 horsepower increase noticeable?

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  #11  
Old 04-21-2010, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
I added a bit over 60hp to my bike.
Sorry to give you crap but a 60HP gain with a bolt in cam and a Screamin Beagle ign is pretty hard to swallow. I'd like to see the chart showing over a 100 HP to the rear wheel.
 
  #12  
Old 04-21-2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jag1886
Sorry to give you crap but a 60HP gain with a bolt in cam and a Screamin Beagle ign is pretty hard to swallow. I'd like to see the chart showing over a 100 HP to the rear wheel.
I don't play Dyno wars, and have been drag racing for 33 years. I'm dyno'd for 2 different setups. 1 for the track and one for the street. For the track I run 110 sunoco with a different Carb, exhaust and intake. Plus my timing and rev limiter are set up different. I also have mods that aren't listed. Coated pistons, etc. and a whole bunch of none of anyones business. I run a 9.38 in the quarter with a slick and wheelie bar. Not bad considering I weigh 205lbs.

I also have a 800 Open Mod 2 stroke. 268hp inna 217lb frame. Averages low 4's and 136mph in the 1/8 mile.

Sorry, but most importantly, I don't give a **** what you find hard to swallow.
 

Last edited by xFreebirdx; 04-21-2010 at 07:52 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-21-2010, 07:40 PM
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It will pull strong from idle to redline, you'll be hitting the rev-limit alot if you don't shift fast enough.

Dan did a stage II on my heads and it was worth it. A stage II bike in the twisties is Fun Fun Fun !
 
  #14  
Old 04-21-2010, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Herr Monk
It totally depends where on the power-band the increase is vs where and how you ride.

An increase in peak-power of 25% should be pretty noticeable, provided you ride the power curve, and not the torque-curve like many HD riders do because they "feel" the tq curve more, and don't like running their engines over 5k RPM.

If you're someone who never hits red-line, that's some money to drop for a little more seat-of-the-pants thrill.
Yup, that's exactly what I was thinking. Besides, for me, this thing already goes faster than I want to go.
 
  #15  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
I don't play Dyno wars, and have been drag racing for 33 years. I'm dyno'd for 2 different setups. 1 for the track and one for the street. For the track I run 110 sunoco with a different Carb, exhaust and intake. Plus my timing and rev limiter are set up different. I also have mods that aren't listed. Coated pistons, etc. and a whole bunch of none of anyones business. I run a 9.38 in the quarter with a slick and wheelie bar. Not bad considering I weigh 205lbs.

I also have a 800 Open Mod 2 stroke. 268hp inna 217lb frame. Averages low 4's and 136mph in the 1/8 mile.

Sorry, but most importantly, I don't give a **** what you find hard to swallow.
 
  #16  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:49 PM
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Oyea you will noticeand aaa+1
 
  #17  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:42 PM
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most would notice it with the first release of the clutch.
 
  #18  
Old 04-22-2010, 05:10 AM
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not to offend anyone this early in my stay here but...if you can't notice +/- 5hp on a bike, you shouldn't be riding...or if you can't feel it, make sure you have a good mechanic on call(with a truck).
 
  #19  
Old 04-22-2010, 10:42 AM
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20 additional horsepower should be very noticeable, and pulling an additional 20 horsepower out of a engine isn't as 'easy' as it might sound.

As far as the Screamin' Eagle camshafts for the EVO Sportster engines, they come in a number of flavors, running from mild to wild.

The mildest SE cam for the EVO engine is the .497, which has a lift of .497 on both the intake and exhaust. Moving up the performance scale you have the SE .536, the SE 551 (which is also known as the 'high torque' "E" cam), and then the SE 575 which produces major increases in the upper RPM range.

I'm running the Screamin' Eagle "E" cams (.551) in my 2005 1200C, and the horsepower increase is very noticeable across the normal RPM range.

But even so, my Harley dealership mechanic friend, who also does performance dyno tunes, has told me that installing the .551 "E" cams alone will give you an 8 to 10 horsepower increase at the rear wheel. The horsepower increase with the lower lift .536 and .497 cams would be less.

Of course these horsepower figures would be much high with highly modified heads. NRHS has reported horsepower figures of around 105 with a 1250 engine using the .536 cams along with highly modified Stage 3 cylinder heads. The .551 cams would probably up that figure somewhat, while it would probably be slightly lower with the milder street .497 cams.

Here is a little information from the NRHS webpage;

"SCREAMING EAGLE EVOLUTION SPORTSTER GRINDS

In milder Sportster/Buell engines, we have tremendous success with Screaming Eagle cams. The Screaming Eagle bolt-ins (stock in many Buells) are the best bolt-in grind we've ever tested in these engines. Moving up the scale, we have repeatedly made 104-107hp with SE .536's and Stage 3 headwork in 1250 kits. Both of these cams work fine with stock pushrods, lifters, and rockers, too, keeping the costs down. All things considered, these cams perform well and are a terrific value.



The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models.


 
  #20  
Old 04-22-2010, 01:16 PM
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lol this what junkies call "chasin the dragon" lol you'll notice it all right but you'll be spending $ for more n more until you gotta finely tuned million $$ machine with a ton of everything but if the one part loosens or fails it'll run like crap til you fix it
 
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