Exhaust Bolts
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#3
I lost one last season from my rear CYL. I just went to the HD dealer and told them i needed a exhaust flang nut that goes on the CYL and they looked it up. Use loctite on them. Since I intalled the new pipes I have had to sug mine more then once and I need to check them again soon.
#5
The nuts are 5/16-24 (that's fine thread). Don't use Stainless Steel nuts here, you want plain old cadmium plated. Believe it or not, you actually want them to rust a bit onto the studs which keeps them from loosening up in the future. If you need to remove them at a later date, a penetrating oil like PB Blaster will free them up.
#7
+1 - Loctite won't work at this location, the temps are too hot. Use a star washer and re-torque after 3 or 4 heat cycles.
The nuts are 5/16-24 (that's fine thread). Don't use Stainless Steel nuts here, you want plain old cadmium plated. Believe it or not, you actually want them to rust a bit onto the studs which keeps them from loosening up in the future. If you need to remove them at a later date, a penetrating oil like PB Blaster will free them up.
The nuts are 5/16-24 (that's fine thread). Don't use Stainless Steel nuts here, you want plain old cadmium plated. Believe it or not, you actually want them to rust a bit onto the studs which keeps them from loosening up in the future. If you need to remove them at a later date, a penetrating oil like PB Blaster will free them up.
Yep...what he said
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#9
I'm had the same problem more than 5 times with exhaust nuts on the rear cylinder only. Then I found after my last ride that the rear pipe cracked at the weld. Looking closer, the heat shield clamp and melted at the spot welds. Not the end yet. Rear pipe clamp broke near the case. This is clearly a heat/vibration issue with Harley Davidson Sportster.
#10