Yes, they definitely can. They can also show to have 12.8v and still not work. The only way to know for sure is to have them load tested so that you can see how many CCA's they are generating.

 

Read about other guys finding them at auto stores on another site. You would need to verify that the specs match, but this one looks a lot like the starter relay. It's a horn relay for a '04 Toyota Corolla.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1744&ppt=C0111

 

Sorry. Forgot one other thing. While I was tracking down the starter relay info for an auto parts store equivalent, I ran across another post with a similar problem. In that person's case, the cause ended up being an ignition switch that had a short.

Once you get your battery load tested to verify it is OK, that may be another thing to check.

 

A load test can be inaccurate if it's fresh off of a charger.

 

My 02 did the same thing, the Positive cable end at the starter had broke at the crimped end. The cable was still attached in the protective heat shrink so it would run the lights but as soon as you hit the starter nothing.

I checked everything before calling old time HD mech and he said that was a common problem on that age bike. Either the eyelet breaks or the cable at the crimp.

 

I had the same thing happen with the cable breaking inside of the insulation, close to the eyelet that connects to the starter motor on my 2007 XL883. It was impossible to see visually and it acted just like a loose connection to the battery or a dead/dying battery. I bought a new starter cable from Pep boys for a couple of bucks and I have had no problems with it since. Good luck with your problem and ride safe out there.

 

Yep, I had the same wire experience as Mike & XLCR had. I had the loose/broken ground wire where it was crimped. However, I was able to pull the wire out of the connector eyelet. Put the new wire on & she fired right up.

 

One thing I have come across is that it is possibe for spade fuse to have the element break. It will look good and even test good with an ohm meter...until it is wiggled. That might be something worth checking on the involved circuit fuses.

 

Took the battery back to the place I bought it and it had 9v. They have to charge it over night and test it in the morning to see if it really is bad. If it is then they will warranty it. So just to be clear I need to actually pull the wires and check them for breaks? That CAN cause the lights to sometimes come on and sometimes not? Give me some symptons of an ignition switch. That was the other thing I was thinking.

 

If you charged the battery and then took it somewhere and they tested it and came up with 9VDC the battery is bad, no doubt. If this is the case the battery has a dead cell. Aside form that check all of the cable ends, load test the battery (those are the easy fixes), if nothing check the ign. switch for loose/corroded connections.

*edit* in order to run your light and accessories requires a lot less amperage draw and can be done through a bad connection sometimes, HOWEVER, the starter motor pulls lots of current and can not be done with a bad/loose connection.