oil?
#3
WOW - This subject never goes away as we all have our own choice,but here goes.I am a retired Master mechanic who has been building Bikes as a passion of mine for over 30 years and the Harley Engine and the lubricants has come a long way over that period of time.However my way of thinking is still pretty old school because it works for me very well. In my own Harley(s) I only run Aviation Oil and this is why.
About 10 years ago I was lucky enough to actually speak with the engineers at ASE(the company that certifies oils) and found this out.That the only differance between
Motorcycle oil and Aviation oil is this.As Most piston engine aircraft sit for long periods of time without operation the oil has a extra additive to prevent pitting/rust on surfaces. Now since I live in Wisconsin my bike also can sit for extended periods of time without operation (winter) and this extra protection makes good sense to me.
I also checked oil temp on hot days and found out that my oil temp is about 10 degrees cooler with the aviation oil along with a 5 pound increse in oil presure.
With all of that in mind I gladly spend the little extra for the Aviation oil . Good Luck with your choice & Happy Riding!
About 10 years ago I was lucky enough to actually speak with the engineers at ASE(the company that certifies oils) and found this out.That the only differance between
Motorcycle oil and Aviation oil is this.As Most piston engine aircraft sit for long periods of time without operation the oil has a extra additive to prevent pitting/rust on surfaces. Now since I live in Wisconsin my bike also can sit for extended periods of time without operation (winter) and this extra protection makes good sense to me.
I also checked oil temp on hot days and found out that my oil temp is about 10 degrees cooler with the aviation oil along with a 5 pound increse in oil presure.
With all of that in mind I gladly spend the little extra for the Aviation oil . Good Luck with your choice & Happy Riding!
#5
Mobile 1.
I just did the 1250 engine conversion on my 883. I couldn't believe how clean the inside of that 883 engine was. After 65,000 miles, it still had a few of the cross hatch marks on the inside of the cylinder from when it was new. Rings looked good as new. I wouldn't hesitate to put that engine back together and ride it for another 65,000 miles.
Head and valves were also in great condition. Some slight pitting on the exhaust valve on the rear head. That was easily corrected just by reseating the valves. Valve guides were perfect. Rocker's also looked new.
I just did the 1250 engine conversion on my 883. I couldn't believe how clean the inside of that 883 engine was. After 65,000 miles, it still had a few of the cross hatch marks on the inside of the cylinder from when it was new. Rings looked good as new. I wouldn't hesitate to put that engine back together and ride it for another 65,000 miles.
Head and valves were also in great condition. Some slight pitting on the exhaust valve on the rear head. That was easily corrected just by reseating the valves. Valve guides were perfect. Rocker's also looked new.
Last edited by SportyPig; 01-09-2010 at 01:52 PM.
#6
Mobile 1.
I just did the 1250 engine conversion on my 883. I couldn't believe how clean the inside of that 883 engine was. After 65,000 miles, it still had a few of the cross hatch marks on the inside of the cylinder from when it was new. Rings looked good as new. I wouldn't hesitate to put that engine back together and ride it for another 65,000 miles.
Head and valves were also in great condition. Some slight pitting on the exhaust valve on the rear head. That was easily corrected just by reseating the valves. Valve guides were perfect. Rocker's also looked new.
I just did the 1250 engine conversion on my 883. I couldn't believe how clean the inside of that 883 engine was. After 65,000 miles, it still had a few of the cross hatch marks on the inside of the cylinder from when it was new. Rings looked good as new. I wouldn't hesitate to put that engine back together and ride it for another 65,000 miles.
Head and valves were also in great condition. Some slight pitting on the exhaust valve on the rear head. That was easily corrected just by reseating the valves. Valve guides were perfect. Rocker's also looked new.
On the other hand, Mobile 1 15w-50 syn automotive oil @ $22.00 for a 5 quart jug from Walmart is everything your motor needs, and then some. It tests right up there with the best of the "V-Twin" labeled expensive stuff.
#7
+1 - If it makes you feel better, spend $10.00+ per quart for a "boutique" V-Twin syn oil.
On the other hand, Mobile 1 15w-50 syn automotive oil @ $22.00 for a 5 quart jug from Walmart is everything your motor needs, and then some. It tests right up there with the best of the "V-Twin" labeled expensive stuff.
On the other hand, Mobile 1 15w-50 syn automotive oil @ $22.00 for a 5 quart jug from Walmart is everything your motor needs, and then some. It tests right up there with the best of the "V-Twin" labeled expensive stuff.
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#8
Mobil-1 75-90 Gear Oil in the primary/tranny
Motors = Motor Oil
Gears = Gear Oil
Last edited by cHarley; 01-09-2010 at 04:51 PM.
#10
Yeah...If you use Mobil. AMSOIL can be used for tranny too. AMSOIL 10W-40 meets SAE 80W-90 gear lube requirements. Their 20W-50 meets SAE 90 gear lube viscosity requirements. I personally just find it easier to buy one oil (an oil that runs and performs well I may add) that will do the job for both applications.
Last edited by tumbleweed883; 01-09-2010 at 05:41 PM.