I had never heard of XIED's previously, but a quick search revealed these sets of opinions for what theyre worth

http://www.hdtalking.com/harley_davi...my_bagger.html

http://www.harley-davidson-hangout.c...ied-leads.html


Wouldnt the easiest way to tell if the bike were running either lean or rich be to check the colour of his spark plugs after doing a couple of hundred miles without the fuelpak?

 

Thats one way to get a pretty good reading.

 

Just because there are people with NO fuel management that aren't having problems doesn't mean that their engines are running leaner than they should be. Like I said before it only takes that ONE WOT run to ruin your engine. Especially since our engines are air-cooled and not liquid cooled that should be an even better reason to get some type of fuel management system. There are only two things that cool our engines down= FUEL AND AIR...that's it.

 

ok... question from the board's worst mechanic (ie... me): Why does running the fuel mixture too lean create additional heat? I believe you and the others that it does, I'm just interested in knowing why it does.

 

A richer fuel mixture cools the combustion part of the engine,valves, piston exhaust gas temperature. With a engine running to lean you run the risk of burning a exhaust valve or burning a hole in the piston. And BTW snog1100 I'm not suggesting not using some sort of fuel management system. I run a PC, I'm just saying there is a lot of people with a stage 1 not running any and having no problems with the newer bikes with the FI engine. I don't know what the real truth is but I'm beginning to wounder if it's necessary.

 

Running a PC is probably the best option (as long as you can have it dyno tuned). I just wouldn't take a chance running without one considering the stock a/f ratio is somewhere around 14.2:1. adding MORE air you will probably be somewhere close to 14.6-14.7:1 VERY LEAN

 

I'll vouch for the Xieds (I have the variable equivalent, Vieds). They do richen the mixture and cool my oil temp (at the oil tank) about 20 F. I have the STOCK A/C but SE2 pipes. If I put an SE AC on, I'd get it mapped - cheap insurance to protect an expensive motor.

 

Look at it like an old wood stove. U load it up with burning wood. What happens when you open the vents (high flow air filter), then open the flue all the way (exhaust). More air in and out equals MUCH higher heat in the stove (cylinders). Adding more fresh wood (fuel) cools it down for a bit. If that extra fuel is constant, it stays cooler.


+1 on A/F ratio
14.2- 14.5 stock, once engine gets hot it richens up to about 13.6- 13.8. Still a little bit lean, but better. Fuel management can bring that down to 12.7- 12.9 on a cold start and 11.9- 12.3 at temp. My indie says 12.0 to 12.2 is about as good as it gets (Beach atmosphere though).

 

Now, I realize that this was meant to clarify the question. I don't know if it my age showing or what, but you just confused the hell out of me. If someone does not understand the basics principles of a motor they should not be wrenching on one. People who finally understand these principles after an obscure wood burning stove analogy would definatley fall into that category.

Just having fun with this.

 

awwww come on, that's as simple as it can get. I thought it was pretty creative. Anywho air/ fuel ratios are a REAL Pain!

Moral of the story is that ultimately it's YOUR bike, and you may do with it what you please, but remember, they are AIR cooled, and it's better to start the cooling from the inside. just my $.02