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air cleaner and rejetting

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  #11  
Old 03-15-2010 | 01:22 PM
MechsHands's Avatar
MechsHands
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Default hurricane flow and jets installed

HI everyone,

I just wanted to say thanks for the inputs and advice. I figured I would reply in this post to keep things together and save yet another post on the topic lol.

I got my carb rejetted and the hurricane flow installed today. The hardest part was having a screwdriver to fit the slow jet since it was recessed and the one that I had that fit had a broken tip. Go figure huh? Gave me an excuse to go into sears and get it replaced after all these years.

Couple things I learned and saw that I wanted to pass on to others. Shut the fuel off at the selector valve then start the bike till it runs out of fuel. I had no mess this way and it didnt get warm enough to be a problem. You DO NOT need to remove the carb completely. I didn't touch the throttle cables, choke cable, or fuel line. Once the aircleaner is off simply pull the carb out of the boot and angle it up carefully. Drill out the plug for the mixture screw then remove the bowl.

My carb had a 180 jet installed and a 42. I went with the recommendations from earlier in this post and left the 180 installed and put a 46 jet in.

I adjusted the mixture screw exactly two turns, put it all back together and fired her up. Once the bike was nicely warmed up I checked it and took it for a ride. It was perfect. There was no further popping that I had from when I had just installed the cycleshack slip ons. The bike had great acceleration and sounded very nice.

At first I didnt think that I had any breather tubes going to the air cleaner. I was expecting to see hoses attached to the backplate. Thats when I noticed that the mount bolts for the aircleaner backplate where hollow. I had the breather kit I got from NRHS when I got the hurricane flow. One problem with the kit is that it only comes with 4 hose clamps and you need 7. Also you still need about two more feet of tubing to make a clean looking installation. The only difficulty that I had was deciding where to run the breather tube and filter. Currently I have it running up under and alongside the gas tank and then down the forward frame by the horn. The kit reccomended going under the air filter but I am not sure why. There really isn't any way to route the turbing cleanly that way.

Overall it was a very VERY easy process and makes me very glad that I didn't take it to a shop and have them charge me $200 to do it. The hurricane flow is a GREAT setup. VERY high quality and great customer service. I cannot be more pleased.

Thanks again everyone.

MH
 
  #12  
Old 03-15-2010 | 02:02 PM
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Booey424
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From: Letart,WV
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I did mine myself. It was pretty easy.Even the cover over the screw came off easy. I actually did it twice. I put in a 175 jet and changed it for a 180.
 
  #13  
Old 03-15-2010 | 07:15 PM
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eazyrider
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From: Cowtown, USA
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Good for you. Another DIYer, always a good thing.
 
  #14  
Old 03-15-2010 | 07:22 PM
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SportyPig
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From: Nashville, TN
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
That is the info you need. I usually post the individual ULR for the carb tuning and carb re-jetting from that site. I had never done any carb work before in my life, except on lawn mowers. I followed those directions, and everything worked great.
 
  #15  
Old 03-19-2010 | 10:05 PM
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DaytonaSportster
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
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Originally Posted by DaytonaSportster
I was lucky that my bike after a set of CS slipon mufflers 130t and a SE AC that I did not need to rejet but just adjust the mixture screw to stop the farts.

Ok I admit, the bike kept farting.....
I too just removed the air filter and took the bowl off and replaced the 42 with a 45. 2.5 turns later it runs great!

 
  #16  
Old 03-25-2010 | 07:29 AM
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Trainwrcked
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From: Epsom, NH
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Now is the CV carb kit the way to go? Are there other options or is that the best/easiest kit to install. I have played with carbs before in my snowmobile, but never in my bike. BTW it's an 06 883c. Just have a pair of slip-ons on the bike now, but I want to reduce/remove the farting, etc. Thanks in advance.
 
  #17  
Old 03-25-2010 | 08:55 AM
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MechsHands
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From: Newark OH
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as described above jsut get some jets from jp cycles. Its what I did. Got several slow adn main jets shipped for less than $20. All I needed was a 45 and 46 and 175 and 180 jet though. I found it faster to spend a few more dollars for a few more jets just in case I needed them instead of waiting around for ones I could have gotten anyways.

Mine works fine with the 46 and 180 jet. I just happened to have the 180 jet installed already.

MH
 
  #18  
Old 03-25-2010 | 06:26 PM
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jag1886
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From: Boise Idaho
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You need a 45 slow jet and a 180 main. DO NOT put in anything larger, that is all you need.
There is no mystery to rejetting these are the same size jets that have been used for 20 years and it's still what you need.
The first time jet change you do need to disconnect the feul line and at least pull the carb out of the manifold to get access to the plug covering the idle screw (you can leave the throttle cable hook up), it is easy to get the plug out you just drill an 1/8 hole in the cover/plug and screw a small screw in the hole and then pull out the plug with a pair of pliers.
Then adjust the idle screw out 2.5 turns and you will be almost perfect.
 
  #19  
Old 03-26-2010 | 08:36 AM
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MechsHands
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From: Newark OH
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Originally Posted by jag1886
You need a 45 slow jet and a 180 main. DO NOT put in anything larger, that is all you need.
There is no mystery to rejetting these are the same size jets that have been used for 20 years and it's still what you need.
The first time jet change you do need to disconnect the feul line and at least pull the carb out of the manifold to get access to the plug covering the idle screw (you can leave the throttle cable hook up), it is easy to get the plug out you just drill an 1/8 hole in the cover/plug and screw a small screw in the hole and then pull out the plug with a pair of pliers.
Then adjust the idle screw out 2.5 turns and you will be almost perfect.
Jag actually if you look further up in my post you DO NOT need to disconenct the fuel line. I know this because I never disconnected any hoses or lines or cables from mine. There is plenty of room and flexibility to pull the carb from the intake boot and tilt it about 45 degrees giving you clear acess to drill the plug, then pull the bowl off and change jets. Unless you are someone that needs to have everything laying on a table or can't look from the bottom up there is not a need to remove anything. It saved me the hassle of breaking the factory fuel clamp and having to put another clamp on.

I put the information based on what I saw and experienced to hopefully clarify some things and help others and make it a bit easier for them.

Bike runs and works great.

MH
 
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