Hi all
haven't been on in a while. I recently retired and have been very busy. Recently took a 2000 mile trip on the Sportster, but that will be another post.
I just had the primary chain adjuster on my Sportster replaced with an automatic adjuster. I now have quite a bit of noise coming out of my primary case when I am riding. mostly in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear and when I am deaccelerating. the garage that put it in for me said they hear a litle noise and I should ride it for the weekend and see if the adjuster needs to wear in. Does anyone else have experience with an automatic chain adjuster on a Sportster and if so does it make a rattling noise in the primary case? Ive checked and the chain is tight and well lubricated. Any suggestions?
thanks
Lou

 

what year ?

 

Yea, the year info would help. Personally, I don't see any need for an automatic chain adjuster. I check mine every 5K miles and only seem to need a small adjustment about every 10K miles (50K miles on the bike). Sounds to me like you got sold something you don't need and it isn't working right.

 

It's an 06 1200C. I was told my old on was loose and wobblying and need to be replaced otherwise i would not have replaced it.
Lou

 

Your old what? Chain? never heard of that so soon. Your old manual adjuster ? Soimething seems whacky to me.

 

Sorry for the second post...but if you hear a clanking noise when you let up on the throttle, it's usually the chain hitting the cover. I actually hate the fact that my 08 Ultra comes stock with the auto tensioner. It is not hard to loosen one bolt and adjust every 5-10k miles.

 

I was told the chain adjuster was loose and wobbly.
I checked the chain it is tight.
Lou

 

The problem with auto adjuster is they are spring loaded to take up the slack on the bottom of the chain (the part that is not under load while accelerating), when decelerating the problem comes in when you are using quite a bit of engine compression braking the part of the chain that is under load is at the bottom and the load can compress the adjuster spring causing slack at the top of the chain, the slack at the top allows the chain to flop around and hit the inside of the case causing the noise.
Try not using the engine braking as agressivly or replace the auto adjuster with the factory set up that keeps the chain tight under acceleration and deceleration.

 

I just changed to an automatic adjuster on my 2000 Ultra. I have to say I am really pleased with the result.

I find the bike is smoother and quieter now, and gear changes seem less clunky somehow.

When I got the bike, I did a full oil change and filter change and discovered the oil on the primary case was awful and full of iron filings. I presume the previous owner neglected to change the oil in the primary case and I think may have also been falling down on the primary chain adjust. I felt, given the obvious wear on the compensator sprocket, that I might get further with 2 oil changes within 100 miles of each other and an auto adjuster, as it would keep the chain correctly tensioned at all times. So far so good. Quieter and easier shifts and running. No humming sound of an over tight chain, no obvious rattles from an over loose one.

It is important to actually read the instructions that come with the new adjuster and fit it as directed, otherwise you run the risk of having the chain over-tight to start with, with no chance of getting the primary adjuster backed off a notch.

Can't fault it.

 

I'd switch back to the manual tensioner. I've heard nothing but problems with them when used on sportsters. What Hotlap said about the spring loaded nature of the tensioner is exactly what the problem is, the top side of the chain goes slack during deceleration more worse so when combined with engine braking, and the result is the the top side of the chain slopping around and hitting the top side of the case. I have seen atleast 2 cases where this resulted in the uppers side of the case being cracked open, and numerous other with just a ton of wear on the upper case with a bunch of aluminum shavings getting into the primary fluid. So i'd put the manual tensioner back in. Replacement nylon pad for it can be had for about 10 bucks, and some places like nhrs also sell a replacement heavy duty pad that's about twice as thick as the original one.