Nightster/Iron Stock Headlight relocation (a la Old School)
#1
Nightster/Iron Stock Headlight relocation (a la Old School)
Original idea by Motordrum: remove the eyebrow, build a new support bracket and invert the headlight assembly, make your Sportster look old school with minimal investment!!:
First.. remove the top round cap in order access the nut that secures the headlight:
You don't need to remove the headlight from the assembly in order to accomplish the relocation, but in case you want
to completely remove the headlight to avoid damage while working on the bike.. or in case you want to paint it (my case) then you open the
bulb connector by releasing three little latches on the sides of the connector... access the metal internal connectors.. they are tricky to remove..
you have to exert pressure on both release latches at the same time and then pull the connector.. the release latches are indicated
by white arrows on the following picture:
Cut the rubber grommet in a way you can reuse, remove it and then carefully remove the metal connectors one by one.
the cable connects to the headlight casing on the side, I wanted a cleaner look... so I drilled a hole at the bottom of the case, be patient
drilling the hole... it is a quite thick and strong metal piece: here is the location.. drill it from the inside out:
Discard the eyebrow.. it is time for a new bracket...
this new bracket has to be rust resistant and pretty strong/thick because
otherwise the headlight will rattle, causing the beam light to be all over the place during night rides... pretty distracting to you and other drivers.........
in my case I used THREE layers of T-shaped galvanized metal brackets
commonly used for exterior wood fences (got them at home depot) like this one:
After much cutting, grinding and drilling, this is the result (rough initial bracket):
Of course, once you invert the headlight... the low light beam is going to be pointing way up... but the headlight and support
metal ring have a guiding mechanism to guarantee proper headlight alignment... you have to remove the latching plastic guide in order to be able to
rotate the headlight.. it is a simple procedure... simply cut/grind the soft plastic guiding protuberance off the headlight...
the arrow point to the plastic guide you need to remove:
Proper orientation of the headlight requires trial and error.. install it, bolt it.. turn the light on... too high/too low.. hammer the handmade bracket until satisfied!.. please adjust the headlight beam orientation before any final sanding, grinding, priming and painting of the bracket...
After some grinding to make the bracket look roundish and smooth, I used body filling (wonderful stuff, easy to apply and sand... very durable) so.. the three layers of metal now look like one solid metal piece, here is the final version, after covering the original cable hole with metal putty (and some patient sanding to match the roundish contour of the headlight housing), I used Colorrite metal primer and the Harley flat black from Colorrite also to paint the headlight, I am pleased with the result (notice how much cleaner appearance you can attain by redirecting the cables at the bottom of the headlight housing):
. I covered the original headlight cable hole with metal putty... after some grinding, priming and painting
the headlight looks pretty clean.. and everybody who saw it thought it was an aftermarket headlight... props to Motordrum for the
original idea (was it you? I believe so)... anyway... I think the retro look on my bike is pretty badass!!...
Questions? please do not hesitate to IM me or post your questions/comments..
Thanks and happy riding!!!!..
First.. remove the top round cap in order access the nut that secures the headlight:
You don't need to remove the headlight from the assembly in order to accomplish the relocation, but in case you want
to completely remove the headlight to avoid damage while working on the bike.. or in case you want to paint it (my case) then you open the
bulb connector by releasing three little latches on the sides of the connector... access the metal internal connectors.. they are tricky to remove..
you have to exert pressure on both release latches at the same time and then pull the connector.. the release latches are indicated
by white arrows on the following picture:
Cut the rubber grommet in a way you can reuse, remove it and then carefully remove the metal connectors one by one.
the cable connects to the headlight casing on the side, I wanted a cleaner look... so I drilled a hole at the bottom of the case, be patient
drilling the hole... it is a quite thick and strong metal piece: here is the location.. drill it from the inside out:
Discard the eyebrow.. it is time for a new bracket...
this new bracket has to be rust resistant and pretty strong/thick because
otherwise the headlight will rattle, causing the beam light to be all over the place during night rides... pretty distracting to you and other drivers.........
in my case I used THREE layers of T-shaped galvanized metal brackets
commonly used for exterior wood fences (got them at home depot) like this one:
After much cutting, grinding and drilling, this is the result (rough initial bracket):
Of course, once you invert the headlight... the low light beam is going to be pointing way up... but the headlight and support
metal ring have a guiding mechanism to guarantee proper headlight alignment... you have to remove the latching plastic guide in order to be able to
rotate the headlight.. it is a simple procedure... simply cut/grind the soft plastic guiding protuberance off the headlight...
the arrow point to the plastic guide you need to remove:
Proper orientation of the headlight requires trial and error.. install it, bolt it.. turn the light on... too high/too low.. hammer the handmade bracket until satisfied!.. please adjust the headlight beam orientation before any final sanding, grinding, priming and painting of the bracket...
After some grinding to make the bracket look roundish and smooth, I used body filling (wonderful stuff, easy to apply and sand... very durable) so.. the three layers of metal now look like one solid metal piece, here is the final version, after covering the original cable hole with metal putty (and some patient sanding to match the roundish contour of the headlight housing), I used Colorrite metal primer and the Harley flat black from Colorrite also to paint the headlight, I am pleased with the result (notice how much cleaner appearance you can attain by redirecting the cables at the bottom of the headlight housing):
. I covered the original headlight cable hole with metal putty... after some grinding, priming and painting
the headlight looks pretty clean.. and everybody who saw it thought it was an aftermarket headlight... props to Motordrum for the
original idea (was it you? I believe so)... anyway... I think the retro look on my bike is pretty badass!!...
Questions? please do not hesitate to IM me or post your questions/comments..
Thanks and happy riding!!!!..
Last edited by joebotics; 10-12-2010 at 08:26 PM.
#7
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#8
hey!... the seat is from lickscustoms.com it is a slimline solo seat model... is like seating on bare metal... I believe it only has 1/4 inch padding... it looks really cool.. I like it a lot!
#9