Got a question that one of you fine young gentlemen might be able to help me with. I hate the ugly black cables that came with my '05 XL so I am looking to replace them with steel braided cables or sleeves. I can get a whole kit of sleeves for the whole bike for $25 and they are quality steel sleeves that cover brake cables, clutch and throttle and idle. If I was to buy individual cables for each part, I'd be looking at well over $200.

Does anybody know if there are any downfalls by doing the sleeves only?
Anyone out there just have the sleeves? (Motionpro makes them)
Any advantages of going with the full cable over sleeves only?

Here's a link that shows the sleeves

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...0367#altImages


I'm interested in hearing thoughts on this topic. I think alot of us hate those ugly black cables. Thanks!

 

Just a thought...One is for looks (sleeves)...the other is for looks/functionality..........thats the difference in performance & $$....

 

WHD,

Yes, first you get what you pay for. The covers will leave exposed metal on the outside of your cables which will rub through any paint that it contacts, and it will contact paint somewhere. Second the ends are held on with hose clamps, they have covers but they're still kinda lame. It really shows that you cheaped out.
The braided brake lines will improve the feel and preformance of your brakes. Rubber lines expand a little and the braided lines can't, thats really why they are used. The throttle and clutch cables are braided just to match the brake lines for looks.
Make sure that the braided lines you get are covered with a clear plastic so you don't end up with the previously mentioned paint rubs. Yes they are the most expensive ones but, you are trying to upgrade the bike right?

DC

 

Braided stainless brake lines are the only way to go, and they are a very good idea for the throttle as well.

As others have mentioned, a braided brake line won't expand like the rubber lines, they offer a little more protection against various road hazzards, and they just plain look better as well.

When I installed the 41mm WideGlide front end on my '05 1200C, a heavy duty 4-piston WG caliper was also added, along with a Russell braided extended brake line.

I wasn't sure if the stock 1200 master cylinder would be up to the task of working with the above setup, but it's fine. I think the use of the braided line has a lot to do with that.

 

OldFenderGuy...Quick question for you or anyone else who wants to chime in...

Since you've added these cables, can you tell me how hard it is to do? I'm going to start with the front and rear brake cables first. Never bled the brakes before but I hear it can be tricky. Any thoughts on this? I've seen a few posts about bleeding the brakes on here which seem helpful. It pains me to pay the dealer $130 for 2 hours worth of work for something I can probably do.

I've done clutch cables before so I don't anticipate this to be problem....Because of cost, I'm going to hold off on the throttle for the time being but in a few months, I will be looking for ideas on those too... THANK YOU!

 

Bleeding the brakes (even after installing a new line) isn't that difficult, and I sure wouldn't pay someone $130 to do the job.

We use the Speed Bleeders, and it makes the process fairly simple and quick. The Speed Bleeders come in either OEM steel, or you can also get them in CNC machined 303 stainless steel that is polished to a chrome like finish. Harley's use the number SB3824HB Speed Bleeders, and they are 3/8x24x1.33.

There is a trick to using Speed Bleeders when installing new lines/fluid. The Speed Bleeders have a check ball in them that is operated by fluid (not air) pressure. After installing a new braided line (and fluid), there is a LOT of air in the system, in fact too much air for the Speed Bleeder to work correctly. The best thing to do is bleed the line the old fashion way until you get the majority of the air out and it starts flowing fluid as well. THEN install the Speed Bleeder, as there will now be enough fluid line pressure to operate the internal check ball.

Using the Speed Bleeder is simple, and a one person operation. Open the bleeder about 1/2 turn, and then pull on the brake lever. When you release the lever the check ball will close, keeping air from entering the system. After a dozen or less 'pulls on the lever' you should have a steady flow of fluid without any air. Close the bleeder, and that's it.

 

Thanks Old Fender Guy! I'm going to give it whirl myself...Think I can handle this one. Used to do auto brakes back in HS automechanics but that was 15 years ago so I need to refresh my memory. I'm going to check into the Speedbleeders, I also found this handy product online

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16177

Not sure what the best one is or if I even need to use the vaccum pump with the Speed Bleeders. It seems it would be less messy sucking the fluid right into the vacuum pump container....I will figure it out and as always, I got a million of my best buddies right here to help me through it.

 

Great tip on the Speed bleeders! I just replaced the front brake line myself and have been fighting with the bleeding process last weekend and this weekend. $21 for two bleeders and a hose (yeah, that was another problem, the local hardware store didn't have the precisely right sized tubing) including shipping. Maybe that sounds like a lot, but after a weekend and a half of trying do do it the "squeeze-open-close-release" way ad nauseum, it certainly seems like money well spent to me.