Oil and Oil filter?
#21
Anyone know what year the EVO based engine came out for the Sportster - I just went to the K&N site and the filters I bought by part # start at 2004 - I was a bit worried that they made a generic filter for all Sportsters not changing the micron size but I feel a bit better with them starting at 2004 model year - perhaps they did change the mircon sizes for the newer bikes.
#22
Anyone know what year the EVO based engine came out for the Sportster - I just went to the K&N site and the filters I bought by part # start at 2004 - I was a bit worried that they made a generic filter for all Sportsters not changing the micron size but I feel a bit better with them starting at 2004 model year - perhaps they did change the mircon sizes for the newer bikes.
The Sportster EVO Based engine was introduced in 1986.
It was available in 883cc and 1100cc versions. In 1988 the 1100cc version was punched out to it's current 1200cc size.
#23
#24
Remove the dipstick, wipe it off, reinstall, then remove and read where the oil level is on the stick. You want it at least on the bottom of the stick. Most sporties prefer to run about the middle of the stick as it will limit blowby. Running it near the top will only waste oil as it will blow out as you ride until it stabilizes.
You will need to find where your bike is happy. Each one is a little different. Personally, my sporty likes to run just about the middle. More than that and it does puke it out. I have no oil leaks and after riding it extensively, I have learned that when I check it when its cold, that if the oil level hits the stick then I am good.
What makes you think that its running hot? To much oil can be just as bad, and sometimes worse, as not enough. Also what kind of oil did you do your oil change with?
MH
#25
Actually Harley recommends a 60 weight oil if the outside temperature is 80+ degrees, almost most owners feel that they get enough protection with a good quality 50 weight fluid (such as 20W50, etc.)...
Most guys I know with very high mileage Harley's (even here in the lower midwest where 100+ temperatures are common during the summer) use regular $4.25 a quart synthetic Mobil 1 15W50 'gold or silver cap' oil.
Even UOA's show that Mobil 1 15W50 provides protection in air cooled engines that is almost identical to the high dollar 'motorcycle specific oils' from Mobil, Amsoil, and others.
I normally use the Mobil 1 15W50 year round, but I lucked into a super deal on a few cases of RedLine 20W60HD oil.. As most know, RedLine is one of the few true synthetic Ester Based Group 5 oils available, and the 60 weight on the high end meet the Harley recommendation of a 60 weight fluid during extreme heat conditions.
RedLine 20W60HD normally cost $12.50+ a quart, but I was able to get some in case lots for about $7.25 a quart delivered, so I have been using it this summer.
To be honest, I don't notice one bit of difference between using the RedLine 20W60HD and the regular Mobil 1 15W50, and my bike probably doesn't notice one bit a difference either.
Would I pay twice as much for a Mobil 1 or Amsoil motorcycle specific oil over the cost of Mobil 1 15W50? No way, as I would be gaining little (if any) additional protection.
Would I pay three times as much (at normal cost) for the RedLine 20W60HD? Absolutely no way.
Most guys I know with very high mileage Harley's (even here in the lower midwest where 100+ temperatures are common during the summer) use regular $4.25 a quart synthetic Mobil 1 15W50 'gold or silver cap' oil.
Even UOA's show that Mobil 1 15W50 provides protection in air cooled engines that is almost identical to the high dollar 'motorcycle specific oils' from Mobil, Amsoil, and others.
I normally use the Mobil 1 15W50 year round, but I lucked into a super deal on a few cases of RedLine 20W60HD oil.. As most know, RedLine is one of the few true synthetic Ester Based Group 5 oils available, and the 60 weight on the high end meet the Harley recommendation of a 60 weight fluid during extreme heat conditions.
RedLine 20W60HD normally cost $12.50+ a quart, but I was able to get some in case lots for about $7.25 a quart delivered, so I have been using it this summer.
To be honest, I don't notice one bit of difference between using the RedLine 20W60HD and the regular Mobil 1 15W50, and my bike probably doesn't notice one bit a difference either.
Would I pay twice as much for a Mobil 1 or Amsoil motorcycle specific oil over the cost of Mobil 1 15W50? No way, as I would be gaining little (if any) additional protection.
Would I pay three times as much (at normal cost) for the RedLine 20W60HD? Absolutely no way.
#26
Yes, it's the 15W50 car oil, which has basically the same specs as the 20W50 "V-twin" labelled Mobil-1. It's what I've been using, but I usually get the five QT jug of it from Wallyworld for about $20-25.
#28
On the Sportsters the same fluid is used for the primary and tranny.
Just about everyone I know with a Sportster runs the Mobil 1 75W90, and have been using it for years and many, many thousands of miles. Some of the Sportsters running it have over 85,000 trouble free miles on the ticker.
One quart should be fine, and I usually change the primary/tranny fluid every 5,000 or so miles. Many others don't change it until at least 7,500 miles.
#30
Oil level is read with the engine warmed up, thus making the oil hot as it will expand some, bike on the jiffy stand, engine off. Dipstick has a range shown on it, an add oil mark near the bottom of the dipstick and a full mark at the top.
Remove the dipstick, wipe it off, reinstall, then remove and read where the oil level is on the stick. You want it at least on the bottom of the stick. Most sporties prefer to run about the middle of the stick as it will limit blowby. Running it near the top will only waste oil as it will blow out as you ride until it stabilizes.
You will need to find where your bike is happy. Each one is a little different. Personally, my sporty likes to run just about the middle. More than that and it does puke it out. I have no oil leaks and after riding it extensively, I have learned that when I check it when its cold, that if the oil level hits the stick then I am good.
What makes you think that its running hot? To much oil can be just as bad, and sometimes worse, as not enough. Also what kind of oil did you do your oil change with?
MH
Remove the dipstick, wipe it off, reinstall, then remove and read where the oil level is on the stick. You want it at least on the bottom of the stick. Most sporties prefer to run about the middle of the stick as it will limit blowby. Running it near the top will only waste oil as it will blow out as you ride until it stabilizes.
You will need to find where your bike is happy. Each one is a little different. Personally, my sporty likes to run just about the middle. More than that and it does puke it out. I have no oil leaks and after riding it extensively, I have learned that when I check it when its cold, that if the oil level hits the stick then I am good.
What makes you think that its running hot? To much oil can be just as bad, and sometimes worse, as not enough. Also what kind of oil did you do your oil change with?
MH