Ape's or drag bars?
#11
I think both look great on sportys, however, if it was me...I would ask myself how much riding will I be doing with my bike. If it's just a weekend thing or short rides, you can go drag and not have to worry about gettin new cables but if you plan on ridin alot, i'd prefer apes. Goodluck, I'm sure whatever u decide on, it'll look better than stock period.
#13
I think I'm leaning towards my orginal idea of the drags... Don't have to spend extra on cables.
Thanks,
J
#14
PHAT A$$ -
You could get the pullback T-bars that would give you the drag bar look without having to bend double reaching for your handlebars. T-bars can be cheaper than buying risers and bars. I was thinking of doing this at one time and found a couple of ways to relocate the speedometer.
Both ways require the purchase of a speedometer mount.
This mount is available through J&P Cycles:
Gauge bracket, chrome, single gauge, for 1995-2008 XL 883 and 1995-2004 Dyna Glide® (except FXDWG). Part #39-0212 $35.99
You will have to buy individual indicator (idiot) lights to use with this mount (about $5 each).
The first way to mount the speedometer bracket is to mount them on the cover bolts on top of the upper tripple tree.
The other way to mount the speedometer bracket is to use cable clamps attached to the T-bar risers.
J&P Cycles has a set of Milwaukee Twins T-bars (30½" wide, 7" rise, 8 3/4" pullback) for $86.99 (P/N: 500669).
Hope this helps.
You could get the pullback T-bars that would give you the drag bar look without having to bend double reaching for your handlebars. T-bars can be cheaper than buying risers and bars. I was thinking of doing this at one time and found a couple of ways to relocate the speedometer.
Both ways require the purchase of a speedometer mount.
This mount is available through J&P Cycles:
Gauge bracket, chrome, single gauge, for 1995-2008 XL 883 and 1995-2004 Dyna Glide® (except FXDWG). Part #39-0212 $35.99
You will have to buy individual indicator (idiot) lights to use with this mount (about $5 each).
The first way to mount the speedometer bracket is to mount them on the cover bolts on top of the upper tripple tree.
The other way to mount the speedometer bracket is to use cable clamps attached to the T-bar risers.
J&P Cycles has a set of Milwaukee Twins T-bars (30½" wide, 7" rise, 8 3/4" pullback) for $86.99 (P/N: 500669).
Hope this helps.
#15
Now thats an idea i didn't even think about, good one. Would work on any set of risers i'm guessing. Just curious though how strong those cable clamps are and if they can handle the vibration of the speedo bracket?
#16
#17
Your bars?
PHAT A$$ -
You could get the pullback T-bars that would give you the drag bar look without having to bend double reaching for your handlebars. T-bars can be cheaper than buying risers and bars. I was thinking of doing this at one time and found a couple of ways to relocate the speedometer.
Both ways require the purchase of a speedometer mount.
This mount is available through J&P Cycles:
Gauge bracket, chrome, single gauge, for 1995-2008 XL 883 and 1995-2004 Dyna Glide® (except FXDWG). Part #39-0212 $35.99
You will have to buy individual indicator (idiot) lights to use with this mount (about $5 each).
The first way to mount the speedometer bracket is to mount them on the cover bolts on top of the upper tripple tree.
The other way to mount the speedometer bracket is to use cable clamps attached to the T-bar risers.
J&P Cycles has a set of Milwaukee Twins T-bars (30½" wide, 7" rise, 8 3/4" pullback) for $86.99 (P/N: 500669).
Hope this helps.
You could get the pullback T-bars that would give you the drag bar look without having to bend double reaching for your handlebars. T-bars can be cheaper than buying risers and bars. I was thinking of doing this at one time and found a couple of ways to relocate the speedometer.
Both ways require the purchase of a speedometer mount.
This mount is available through J&P Cycles:
Gauge bracket, chrome, single gauge, for 1995-2008 XL 883 and 1995-2004 Dyna Glide® (except FXDWG). Part #39-0212 $35.99
You will have to buy individual indicator (idiot) lights to use with this mount (about $5 each).
The first way to mount the speedometer bracket is to mount them on the cover bolts on top of the upper tripple tree.
The other way to mount the speedometer bracket is to use cable clamps attached to the T-bar risers.
J&P Cycles has a set of Milwaukee Twins T-bars (30½" wide, 7" rise, 8 3/4" pullback) for $86.99 (P/N: 500669).
Hope this helps.
Are your bars the buckhorns?
#18
Somber Goat, PHAT A$$,
I hate the stock riser/speedometer mount on my 1200C (no offense to anyone that likes them) and have been looking for ways to replace it. These are ideas that have been posted over the past couple of years.
I would think that the cable clamps would be strong enough to support the speedometer mount - someone actually sells the cable clamps and nuts/bolts as a relocation kit on E-bay.
The cable clamps should fit any round riser as long as you get the correct diameter clamp for the riser (1", 1¼", etc.).
PHAT A$$ - you can put replace the 1200/883C riser with one from any other Sportster but you have to use a different speedometer mount. The bolt pattern on the 1200/883C riser is different from all the others so you can't just swap the top clamp with the integrated speedometer mount to a different riser.
I hate the stock riser/speedometer mount on my 1200C (no offense to anyone that likes them) and have been looking for ways to replace it. These are ideas that have been posted over the past couple of years.
I would think that the cable clamps would be strong enough to support the speedometer mount - someone actually sells the cable clamps and nuts/bolts as a relocation kit on E-bay.
The cable clamps should fit any round riser as long as you get the correct diameter clamp for the riser (1", 1¼", etc.).
PHAT A$$ - you can put replace the 1200/883C riser with one from any other Sportster but you have to use a different speedometer mount. The bolt pattern on the 1200/883C riser is different from all the others so you can't just swap the top clamp with the integrated speedometer mount to a different riser.
#19
Ask me how I know
I went from this to the cable clamp method for my Ultima Drag Bars.
#20
PHAT A$$ -
I have the 1200/883L bars on my bike. I am about as tall as you and the stock bars would kill my back after about 20 minutes. I installed these because they have more pullback so I don't have to lean forward when riding. These bars are 28" wide x 6" rise x 10" pullback. I had the Dyna Low bars on before these which were 31" wide x 5" rise x 9" pullback and I actually liked them better because they didn't bend your wrists inward as much. But alas I had to be greedy and have that 1" more of pullback. I plan to install another set of Dyna Low bars ($54 for polished stainless steel at the stealer).
I have the 1200/883L bars on my bike. I am about as tall as you and the stock bars would kill my back after about 20 minutes. I installed these because they have more pullback so I don't have to lean forward when riding. These bars are 28" wide x 6" rise x 10" pullback. I had the Dyna Low bars on before these which were 31" wide x 5" rise x 9" pullback and I actually liked them better because they didn't bend your wrists inward as much. But alas I had to be greedy and have that 1" more of pullback. I plan to install another set of Dyna Low bars ($54 for polished stainless steel at the stealer).