there is a chemical reaction that occurs between aluminum and steel. I had not considered this fact before. Maybe a machinist or engineer can tell us why and if it can be prevented.

 

Galvanic corrosion is the term. Aluminum and steel are dissimilar metals, and their atomic construction allows electrons to flow from one metal to the other. In this case, aluminum acts as the anode, and the stainless acts as the cathode. Generally, the aluminum will corrode preferentially, meaning it will bear the brunt of the corrosion. And the stainless is the more "noble" metal, and since the stainless/aluminum ratio is very small (lots more aluminum in the primary than stainless steel in the screws holding it), that is the correct proportion to limit galvanic corrosion.

I've used stainless (304, 316, 410; passivated and active) for over 35 years attaching aluminum primaries, cam covers, tranny covers, rocker boxes, etc. I have never broken a stainless screw in these installations, and have never had a problem removing them. While I have occasionally put them in dry, or used motor oil to lube the threads, I normally use blue Loc-Tite, or a similar product, and usually torque them to the factory spec, although I'll admit I use my "calibrated" fingers nearly as often.

On my Shovel I used stainless cap screws, nuts, and lock washers to attach the exhaust to the aluminum heads. In this case I used a nickel-based anti-seize on the threads. Never stripped a head, or had the exhaust loosen.

To sum it up - Use the correct thread locking compound, or anti-seize compound, and torque to specifications. Then ride the thing!

 

Not all chrome bolts are created equal.Before the chroming process the bolts should be baked for a certain time at a certain temp.If not they're weakened drastically by chroming.Go with stainless but like someone else suggested use anti-seize when threading into aluminun to prevent galling.

 

Thought I'd add this - Galling happens when you thread stainless into stainless. Stainless into aluminum won't gall, but if you over-torque the harder stainless will pull the threads out of the softer aluminum.

 

I have a 08 1200C, a year ago I bought all the polished SS bolts for my bike. Have not had a problem with them, even after a year they look great. Pay attention to the torque specs and I coated them with anti-seize and did the torque that come with them, yes I did one at a time. Some of them have been in and out several times. No problems yet. If you feel they are getting snug on the way in, take it out and run a tap in the hole, then blow it out with canned air. I checked each hole first with a "dry" bolt. Worked great. Hope this helped. Ride safe.

 

Also you will need a 1/4 inch torque wrench, in inch pounds, got mine at sears. Ride safe.

 

I'd just stick with the Hot Toppers, or another brand, & forgetboutit. I don't have the entire kit, but I haven't lost one yet of the ones I do have.

 

Go stainless. I've been replacing mine with polished stainless, and I think they look great.