Go back to regular Oil
#31
So no one has had any bad experiences with the automotive oil? Around here I can't get much of an answer. Of course you guys know what the Evil Empire (HD) says. But at my local bike shop they have made reference to automotive but then when you ask if its ok they kind of skate around the subject.
#32
Regular petroleum-based motor oil and synthetic motor oil are fully compatible, and can be readily mixed.
Some manufacturers combine the two types of oil and package the mixture as a 'synthetic blend.'
Mobil, Amsoil and just about every other major company have 'synthetic blends' available, and they won't hurt your engine in the least.
Some manufacturers combine the two types of oil and package the mixture as a 'synthetic blend.'
Mobil, Amsoil and just about every other major company have 'synthetic blends' available, and they won't hurt your engine in the least.
#33
So no one has had any bad experiences with the automotive oil? Around here I can't get much of an answer. Of course you guys know what the Evil Empire (HD) says. But at my local bike shop they have made reference to automotive but then when you ask if its ok they kind of skate around the subject.
I believe that oils that meet deisel applications are what we need. At least as far as moco is concerned. Correct me if I am wrong. Myself I keep a pint or so of HD 20-50 in my bags. Just like wrenches, rain gear etc. Even keep a pint of gas on the long trips, never can tell
#34
I hope you don't take everything you find in the internet as gospel.
Did you know that anyone can add or edit information on WiKi? No qualifications or factual knowledge is required.
In this case, the forum is a far more reliable source if you look at what the old timers are telling you.
As said above: Fact - Your bike came with dino oil in it and when it was changed to synthetic, almost a quart of the dino was left in the system. It happens every time you change your oil.
Did you know that anyone can add or edit information on WiKi? No qualifications or factual knowledge is required.
In this case, the forum is a far more reliable source if you look at what the old timers are telling you.
As said above: Fact - Your bike came with dino oil in it and when it was changed to synthetic, almost a quart of the dino was left in the system. It happens every time you change your oil.
#35
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Ahh. an oil thread carrying over into the New Year! LOL, it just don't get no better than this!
With modern oils there is I can think of 1 caveat to mixing brands, types, and even weights; the additive packages might "clash" with each other. But even then it probably ain't gonna cause a big whoopin' problem. Have seen some foam up more than normal, but that was a rare thing, and may have been caused by another additive the owner used.
Bottom line is that HD branded oils are good quality oils, whether Syn3 or regular. They're also over-priced compared to equivalent quality non-HD oils, and way over-priced when compared to better quality non-HD oils.
Use whatever modern good quality oil you want. Just use the correct viscosity for the riding temperatures, change the oil & filter at least as often as the manufacturer says is prudent, and go ride. Do that and your HD warranty is in effect, no matter what the local dealer says.
I'd hazard that no one here has ever seen an HD engine failure caused by oil.
Notes:
Why did HD not recommend synthetic before coming out with their own brand? One reason only, and it had nothing to do with the fact that it was synthetic oil; rather, it was because HD hadn't tested their engines with synthetic. The MoCO ain't in the business of testing other people's products, any more than Dell tests other manufacturer's computer boards. Of course that simple explananation got twisted severely by local dealers, and by the bearing skate idiots.
I've got a small notebook left me by my Dad. He was a diesel, and then Chevy, mechanic after WW2 and into the late '50s. The notebook details jobs he performed, and it's a trip reading it. The notebook was put out by Kendall (IIRC), and bravely says that their oil is a "2000 mile" oil! Inside, my Dad's notes show that he was rebuilding all types of engines, and the one with the most miles on it has about 75,000. Most jobs listed were top ends at ~35,000 miles. We've come a long way, baby!
With modern oils there is I can think of 1 caveat to mixing brands, types, and even weights; the additive packages might "clash" with each other. But even then it probably ain't gonna cause a big whoopin' problem. Have seen some foam up more than normal, but that was a rare thing, and may have been caused by another additive the owner used.
Bottom line is that HD branded oils are good quality oils, whether Syn3 or regular. They're also over-priced compared to equivalent quality non-HD oils, and way over-priced when compared to better quality non-HD oils.
Use whatever modern good quality oil you want. Just use the correct viscosity for the riding temperatures, change the oil & filter at least as often as the manufacturer says is prudent, and go ride. Do that and your HD warranty is in effect, no matter what the local dealer says.
I'd hazard that no one here has ever seen an HD engine failure caused by oil.
Notes:
Why did HD not recommend synthetic before coming out with their own brand? One reason only, and it had nothing to do with the fact that it was synthetic oil; rather, it was because HD hadn't tested their engines with synthetic. The MoCO ain't in the business of testing other people's products, any more than Dell tests other manufacturer's computer boards. Of course that simple explananation got twisted severely by local dealers, and by the bearing skate idiots.
I've got a small notebook left me by my Dad. He was a diesel, and then Chevy, mechanic after WW2 and into the late '50s. The notebook details jobs he performed, and it's a trip reading it. The notebook was put out by Kendall (IIRC), and bravely says that their oil is a "2000 mile" oil! Inside, my Dad's notes show that he was rebuilding all types of engines, and the one with the most miles on it has about 75,000. Most jobs listed were top ends at ~35,000 miles. We've come a long way, baby!
#36
As usual, OldFender is right on the money. Whether you prefer to run synth or old school lube for whatever reason, frequency of the change is key if not critical and this includes the filter. I dump mine from 2000-2500 miles. Maybe it's my aircraft mentality but I feel better running hard with clean oil (Mobil syn, for me).
Also, for those who have to park their machines in winter climate, resist the temptation to fire up and go for quick rides and then park it again - unless you really heat the engine up for 30+ minutes of riding.
Also, for those who have to park their machines in winter climate, resist the temptation to fire up and go for quick rides and then park it again - unless you really heat the engine up for 30+ minutes of riding.
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