Hey all,

well, i got all my stuff except for the seat so i went out and startted taking off the studs so i could put on the new pipes and both front studs snaped off........didn't seam any harder than any other time to take off but this time they snaped.....back worked fine but the one front one is snaped off at the motor and the other i lost about a quater inch from it........do you guys recomend me drilling out the stud or taking it to a shop and have them do it? i'm pretty handy with tools and know how to do it but just wanted to hear what you guys had to say......anyone done this before? how did you do it?


thanks

 

anybody have any ideas...

 

02Sporty: First of all I have to tell you that I am not a H-D mechanic. But, I have spent years in either gunsmithing or machine shops. I have no idea how those studs were seated and sealed in, but here is how I would approach it in my shop. Make sure the bike is securely positioned on a lift with tiedowns. Pull everything out of the way that you can. If there is an exhaust gasket and retaining ring get it out of there. Lathe turn a soft wood plug that will snug fit into the exhaust port. That is protection in case something breaks while attempting the following: On the stud that is protruding; carefully grind at least its center flat. With a very sharp small centerpunch put a punch mark at dead center. With the very best quality stubby 1/8 " dia. twist drill that you can buy, carefully drill a hole about 3/8 but no more than 1/2" into the stud. Take a slightly larger drill bit and redrill the hole larger. Keep doing that until the hole is close to the existing threads, but not into them. Be very careful to drill parallel to the stud's axis. Select an easyout that is correct for the final hole and that you can chuck into a T-handle. Start the easyout in the hole. Preheat to a warm-to-the-touch the easyout and surrounding area with a low temp propane torch. Set the propane torch aside. Place the T-handle on the easyout and give it some torque in the backing out direction. If the stud doesn't start with a firm pressure, try heat again being sure not to overheat the cylinder area. The wood plug may char a little bit, but no big deal. This time have another person gently but repeatedly tap the head of the T-wrench with a small ballpean hammer while you are applying pressure once again. This should get the stud out.

On the stud that is broken off flush, take your sharp center punch and try to get a punch mark as close to the center as possible. Use a very small machinist's center drill bit to start the hole. The center drill can be chucked in a small 1/4" drill motor. If your center punch mark is not centered, you can attempt to "drift" the hole more towards the center by holding the drill motor in the proper slant. When you are satisfied with the starting position, do the same procedure as before.

I am not sure how deeply threaded those studs are. You are going to have to buy two new ones anyway, so go get them before starting this. You can then see their depth seating distance, thread sizing etc. Take off the exhaust system on the rear cylinder and measure the amount protruding from the cylinder head. With that you will know how much is seated in the cylinder head.

While you are at the dealer, ask a service writer to go back and ask the Mechanics if those studs are installed with any sort of thread locker by MOCO. If they are, you may best take the bike to a competent Dealer and get them to do the job.

If you are successful, carefully clean the tapped hole out with solvent and a wire brush like is used to clean rifle bores before reinstalling the new studs. Generally studs are reinstalled by putting two nuts on the protruding end and tightening them together to make them act as a bolt head.

Good luck! ............... BC

 

Damn good advice Big C

 

Thanks ******. I know that with your background you could have given the same advice. Maybe TCSTD will have something to add later. .......... BC

 

One thing I have learned while wrenching on cars is the value of reverse spin drill bits. I once had a starter bolt break on my Chevy right inside the block. Used a left handed drill bit to try drilling out the bolt, and after it cut into the bolt about 1/8" , it just simply caught and spun the broken bolt right out! Truley one of the happiest moments in my life!