Battery Alternative to Negative and starting the bike with dead bat
#1
Battery, Solenoid or Starter?
Ok guys I edited the topic title because the situation has changed... Please ignore the 3 answers because they where referred to the initial problem I was dealing with.
I got the battery tender working on the battery out of the bike but nothing happens (the charging yellow light doesn't turn on).
I only see a green light saying the Battery Tender is on and saying the battery is charged!
The multimeter reads 13.3v out of the battery.
But the bike won't start it will give me the TEC TEC TEC TEC sound when I press the button but it won't start.
The battery is still the original and it's been sitting in the bike for a long time 3 years and bike had 100miles...
So is it possible for the battery read perfectly charged and be dead? Can the problem be something else (Solenoid, Starter, Ignition)?
This problem started when I left the ignition key ON and lights also on but the bike engine OFF for a couple of minutes while taking pictures. Then it would not start.
Since that day I can only use the bike starting "manually" (down hill in 2nd gear).
I got the battery tender working on the battery out of the bike but nothing happens (the charging yellow light doesn't turn on).
I only see a green light saying the Battery Tender is on and saying the battery is charged!
The multimeter reads 13.3v out of the battery.
But the bike won't start it will give me the TEC TEC TEC TEC sound when I press the button but it won't start.
The battery is still the original and it's been sitting in the bike for a long time 3 years and bike had 100miles...
So is it possible for the battery read perfectly charged and be dead? Can the problem be something else (Solenoid, Starter, Ignition)?
This problem started when I left the ignition key ON and lights also on but the bike engine OFF for a couple of minutes while taking pictures. Then it would not start.
Since that day I can only use the bike starting "manually" (down hill in 2nd gear).
Last edited by Jor3lBR; 08-18-2008 at 11:49 PM. Reason: NEW ISSUE
#3
#4
I will install a SAE connector to the battery later to make this very easy, but until then the alligator clips on the solar panel charger seams a good option, I have the Clymer manual and there is a better picture of where the negative is bolted I will see if I can find it now.
#5
Really depends how low the battery is. If you kill the battery completely, even popping wont keep it running. Had this happen to me. You require "some" battery to keep things going.
Far as charging, you can bet it will take some time. A 2 amp charger still takes the better part of a day to charge a battery to full. I had to have mine recharged at the dealership (free of charge). They had it on a 2 amp for 5 hours and the battery still only hit 65%. Charged the rest with my battery tender at the house overnight.
I found that HD batteries are the hardest to charge on that weekened. Ate up alot of good riding time.
Also, you wont get a HD to pop start in first gear. The rear tire will lock up and you will just leave a skid mark. I recommend 2nd or 3rd gear.
Far as charging, you can bet it will take some time. A 2 amp charger still takes the better part of a day to charge a battery to full. I had to have mine recharged at the dealership (free of charge). They had it on a 2 amp for 5 hours and the battery still only hit 65%. Charged the rest with my battery tender at the house overnight.
I found that HD batteries are the hardest to charge on that weekened. Ate up alot of good riding time.
Also, you wont get a HD to pop start in first gear. The rear tire will lock up and you will just leave a skid mark. I recommend 2nd or 3rd gear.
#6
Yeah, mine died last week. "ON" position for over 24 hours will do that! Whoops! Not even jump starting it with the jeep running would work. Well, I could only get lights and a click with that method. At the shop it read only 5 volts...it was toast. I'm back in business with a replacement, though.
Teek
Teek
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