Nightster woes....
#21
RE: Nightster woes....
ORIGINAL: Darksyde
natue of the beast my a$$, stalling a EFI is not "normal" unless its operator error. im not being a jerk but i have no problems with mine. it has NEVER stalled on me, and it NEVER seems like it wants to either no matter what the weather is like. it doesnt like slow but what bike does?? use the "friction zone" at slow speeds. i ride everyday possible. the only time i had any kind of problem is when my PCIII wasnt tuned right, thats it. warm up? its EFI.......i would start with checking the PCIII. my .02
natue of the beast my a$$, stalling a EFI is not "normal" unless its operator error. im not being a jerk but i have no problems with mine. it has NEVER stalled on me, and it NEVER seems like it wants to either no matter what the weather is like. it doesnt like slow but what bike does?? use the "friction zone" at slow speeds. i ride everyday possible. the only time i had any kind of problem is when my PCIII wasnt tuned right, thats it. warm up? its EFI.......i would start with checking the PCIII. my .02
Typically, people start on their basic modifications right away which you did. A little more fuel to work with will be helpful. Cerise, I'm sure you won't have any complaints trying that. It can get very cold and humidity is high so the air is very dense leaning out your system when it's that cold.
#23
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: im surrounded by idiots, NY
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RE: Nightster woes....
ORIGINAL: sysint
Factory bikes with EFI start out lean to satisfy EPA requirement. When it's cold outside the net result is that the bike runs leaner which leads to the problems described. So, it really has nothing to do with operator error. I'm not being a jerk but that's what is going on.
Typically, people start on their basic modifications right away. A little more fuel to work with will be helpful. I'm sure you won't have any complaints trying that.
Factory bikes with EFI start out lean to satisfy EPA requirement. When it's cold outside the net result is that the bike runs leaner which leads to the problems described. So, it really has nothing to do with operator error. I'm not being a jerk but that's what is going on.
Typically, people start on their basic modifications right away. A little more fuel to work with will be helpful. I'm sure you won't have any complaints trying that.
#24
RE: Nightster woes....
ORIGINAL: Darksyde
EFI should not stall......period. does your car stall or want to when its cold? and they already said the bike doesnt have a stock setup, so your description of a "factory bike" is meaningless to their problem. it is very easy for something to be mapped wrong. as i said, get the PCIII checked and go from there
ORIGINAL: sysint
Factory bikes with EFI start out lean to satisfy EPA requirement. When it's cold outside the net result is that the bike runs leaner which leads to the problems described. So, it really has nothing to do with operator error. I'm not being a jerk but that's what is going on.
Typically, people start on their basic modifications right away. A little more fuel to work with will be helpful. I'm sure you won't have any complaints trying that.
Factory bikes with EFI start out lean to satisfy EPA requirement. When it's cold outside the net result is that the bike runs leaner which leads to the problems described. So, it really has nothing to do with operator error. I'm not being a jerk but that's what is going on.
Typically, people start on their basic modifications right away. A little more fuel to work with will be helpful. I'm sure you won't have any complaints trying that.
#26
RE: Nightster woes....
I guess I'll state it again, it's running too lean in the cold weather.
Even a stock bike in cold weather will almost stall at times in cold air just idling.
Are you saying it's the operator and there is no chance it's running too lean?
This is her fourth bike. Maybe she's not as good as you are with that riding thing.
Even a stock bike in cold weather will almost stall at times in cold air just idling.
Are you saying it's the operator and there is no chance it's running too lean?
This is her fourth bike. Maybe she's not as good as you are with that riding thing.
#27
RE: Nightster woes....
ORIGINAL: DEREK71
friction zone?
friction zone?
The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) defines the friction zone as "the area of clutch lever movement that begins where the clutch starts to transmit power to the rear wheel and ends just prior to full clutch engagement."
In short, the friction zone is where the clutch slips and the transmission grips, and partial power is transmitted to the rear wheel. You'll use the friction zone every time you ride. Stop signs? Lights? Slow moving traffic? Changing gears? If you want to avoid a jerky ride, you'll have to find the friction zone.
So, where is the magic friction zone? It's all in the clutch -- the lever mounted on the left hand grip. But no one can show you its exact location. The friction zone is something you can't see. You have to feel it.
#28
RE: Nightster woes....
ORIGINAL: SHTFIT
"Friction Zone" is a term that the Motorcycle Safety Foundation uses in describing clutch control. It goes like this ( from MSF Site):
The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) defines the friction zone as "the area of clutch lever movement that begins where the clutch starts to transmit power to the rear wheel and ends just prior to full clutch engagement."
In short, the friction zone is where the clutch slips and the transmission grips, and partial power is transmitted to the rear wheel. You'll use the friction zone every time you ride. Stop signs? Lights? Slow moving traffic? Changing gears? If you want to avoid a jerky ride, you'll have to find the friction zone.
So, where is the magic friction zone? It's all in the clutch -- the lever mounted on the left hand grip. But no one can show you its exact location. The friction zone is something you can't see. You have to feel it.
ORIGINAL: DEREK71
friction zone?
friction zone?
The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) defines the friction zone as "the area of clutch lever movement that begins where the clutch starts to transmit power to the rear wheel and ends just prior to full clutch engagement."
In short, the friction zone is where the clutch slips and the transmission grips, and partial power is transmitted to the rear wheel. You'll use the friction zone every time you ride. Stop signs? Lights? Slow moving traffic? Changing gears? If you want to avoid a jerky ride, you'll have to find the friction zone.
So, where is the magic friction zone? It's all in the clutch -- the lever mounted on the left hand grip. But no one can show you its exact location. The friction zone is something you can't see. You have to feel it.
#29
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: im surrounded by idiots, NY
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RE: Nightster woes....
I guess I'll state it again, it's running too lean in the cold weather.
Even a stock bike in cold weather will almost stall at times in cold air just idling.
Are you saying it's the operator and there is no chance it's running too lean?
Even a stock bike in cold weather will almost stall at times in cold air just idling.
Are you saying it's the operator and there is no chance it's running too lean?
ORIGINAL: Mandog
Fuel injected anything should not stall on a start upperiod.
Fuel injected anything should not stall on a start upperiod.
#30
RE: Nightster woes....
My '08 Nightster is also stalling on start up. I figured it was because it wasn't warmed up, but the whole EFI thing always contradicted that. My personal solution: I'll mention that to the mechanic that's putting my pipes on next week (which will be covered in the 2 year warentee). Keyword : Warentee.
I also think the saying "not to be rude but...:" is pointless. IMO.
I also think the saying "not to be rude but...:" is pointless. IMO.