This has happened a few times now. I'm in Delaware so the temperatures haven't been exactly high. When I test-rode the bike at the dealership it died out a couple times while idling and they said it was normal because it's carbeurated and it was only about 45 out. It's done it to me a few times since then. I'll let it warm up for about 5 minutes or so, obviously with the choke in, and then I'll give it throttle and it'll die out. It's kinda embarrassing. It doesn't happen all the time but just it happening bothers me. It chuggs every so often when I'm in 5th doing around 50, mostly when I'm riding into the wind. And now yesterday I was riding at about 25 mph and the temps were around 45 and I was riding in second gear, I squeezed the clutch in and the bike just died out. I restarted it while I was rolling but it was kinda freaky. Any thoughts? Could it be that the engine is adjusted for warm weather and it's too cold for it? I read somewhere on here that stock bikes run too lean for EPA and that it needs to be adjusted. If that could solve the problem how would I go about doing that?

Thanks a mil everyone.

 

Before you go changing anything, I would let it idle for several minutes until the rockerboxes feel warm to the touch, then try it again. If it is still dying out after the engine is warm, then yes.. look into the carb. Unfortunately, the stock carb is not adjustable (except idle RPM) unless you or the previous owner has drilled out the plug over the idle mix screw.

Once you are sure that it is simply a fuel mixture problem, follow these directions:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_190110/tm.htm

 

Could be an intake manifold leak. they are sealing fine until the rubber warms, and then it is pulling in to much air. I would start by checking this.

 

I read through that a little bit and this part caught my attention. "By increasing the size of the slow jet, you are automatically making the idle mixture richer, and the factory setting is often pretty close. Idle performance is usually adequate. The sign that it isn't is an occasional stumble when the throttle is applied at idle. The author encourages you to "do it right" and perform this step if possible."

That occasional stumble is exactly whats happening with mine right before I try to ride off after warming it up. After I'm on the road and running a while everything is fine and when I pull up to a stop light and burrap it a little bit it doesn't seem to stumble like that. So maybe I'm just not warming it up long enough? I let it warm-up until the forward head cooling fins are warm to the back of my gloved hand, is that adequate or should I let it warm up longer?

 

I assume you bought the bike new? If so, what you are experiencing could be caused by the lean running setup as delivered from the factory. The idle mixture screw is a good place to start but the real answer is a Stage 1 to open up the breathing and exhaust.

I had similar problems to yours and they "magically" disappearedonce I completed break-in and did the Stage 1. The engine warms up much faster, no longer stumbles or stalls, andruns much better now that it is able to breathe.

 

Yep., After his last post it sounds like he got a "lean cough" or "carb fart" however you want to call it...
Fatten up the mixture with the idle mix screw (after drilling plug) and that may help some. Like Thump said, just do a stage 1 after you get comfortable with the bike and the problem will definately go away. Plus you'll pick up a few more ponies too.

 

Yeah I've been wanting that Stage 1 anyway. But no it's not new, it's past break-in. It had 5200 when I bought it and now it's over 5500. But I'm gonna look into the Stage 1 a little further.

*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?

 

A dealer will rob you blind for Stage 1. I guess the first place to start is knowing a little more about your bike, and if Stage 1 was already done since the previous owner(s) put 5,200 mile on it.

Do you have the stock mufflers? Has the little tin cover been removed from the idle mixture screw on the carb? The following is good information on the Sportster engine, and will providesome help in finding this idle-mixture screw if you're not familiar with it:

http://www.harley-performance.com/ha...arburetor.html

Do some reading up and check back with us. Stage 1 is generally well within the average guy's ability to do, and you will save some big bucks as well.

 

My bike was dying out in a similar fashion. I took it to an Indy, who promptly pulled the fuel line off the hi-flow petcock to see if it was having an issue there. None. If flowed like a fawcet. Next he pulled the line off the carb side. It was trickleing there. Solution- kink in the fuel line between the petcock and the carb. Cost-$3 bucks for the line, $20 for his time.

 

Only if you want to spend 3 times as much and get average results...

Stage 1 is a fancy term for exhaust, air cleaner, and re-jet/re-map.
Since your bike is carb'ed, get the exhaust of your choice (anything from slip-on performance mufflers to a full exhaust), a performance air cleaner (I like the Arlen Ness, others like K&N, Screamin' Eagle, PowerPacc, etc.), and a jet kit.

You'll need basic hand tools and about 2 to 3 hours worth of tinkering. You'll need a drill to get the idle mix plug out. I recommend taking the carb completely off the bike, so you'll need a small hose clamp to reconnect the fuel line to the petcock.... he he ... petcock... he he (Sorry, I get distracted) The factory clamp has to be pried apart and cannot be reused.