Lastest pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
#1
02-24-2008, 04:49 PM
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#2
02-24-2008, 05:14 PM
RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
Why complain about your *** hurtin when you took off the rear shocks? Although your ride looks quite the killer ride I always wonder why everyone that swaps out the rear shocks for rigid struts then complains about why their *** is killin' them!
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#3
02-24-2008, 05:33 PM
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#4
02-24-2008, 05:43 PM
RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
Bike looks good.
If ya like hard-tail then do the real deal and have Pat from www.ledsledcustoms.com weld a hardtail kit on it (will look better and ride a little different then struts from what I'm told). Of course after cost of hardtail, new fender, seat, relocating wiring & paint it aint cheap but a true rigid is badass looking
.
If ya like hard-tail then do the real deal and have Pat from www.ledsledcustoms.com weld a hardtail kit on it (will look better and ride a little different then struts from what I'm told). Of course after cost of hardtail, new fender, seat, relocating wiring & paint it aint cheap but a true rigid is badass looking
.
#5
02-24-2008, 07:16 PM
#6
02-24-2008, 08:52 PM
RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
txoval.........did you make those struts?I was thinking of making a set out of someflatstock I have.I never liked the struts but they've been growing on me lately,especially since it seems everyone down here is doing a weld on.I was gonna swap frames for a rigid but I 've had some ideas latelyfor some different struts thatcurve in instead of being straight.It would be whole lot cheaper than a frame and definately different.Anyway ,I like 'em......the best part is you can switch back if you want.
[IMG]local://upfiles/36280/64C1F3517C644AE3BC4A96A75F33CD22.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/36280/64C1F3517C644AE3BC4A96A75F33CD22.jpg[/IMG]
#7
02-24-2008, 11:43 PM
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#8
02-25-2008, 06:57 AM
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RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
Yes, I made the struts, probably went overboard and used 3/4" thick by 1.5" wide flat bar, but since it was free I wasn't going to complain.
As far as the weld-on kit goes, you might as well buy a rigid frame and rebuild your bike...and I like the idea of being able to put the shocks back on. As far as ghetto, I guess you could say it's a cheap fix, but it's a cleaner look to me, compared to shocks.
The risers are a must
As far as the weld-on kit goes, you might as well buy a rigid frame and rebuild your bike...and I like the idea of being able to put the shocks back on. As far as ghetto, I guess you could say it's a cheap fix, but it's a cleaner look to me, compared to shocks.
The risers are a must
#9
02-25-2008, 07:04 AM
RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
Not exactly, because buying a rigid frame requires you to use an MSO in place of you VIN. A weld on is more practical and also keeps you from having to fab motor mounts, balance and shim your engine, and a SLEW of other pain-in-the-*** work when using a brand new frame. Ie. using a paughco POS frame requires you to use different gussets, use shims to space your rear wheel correctly, requires you to use a different front end setup to maintain proper rake and trail (in most cases) and most times they're crooked as hell. Most other mass production frames are also MIG welded and I wouldn't trust that as far as I could throw it.
I'd take the weld-on kit that's built on a jig, TIG welded,and refined to perfection, myself.
And as far as swappin back...if you're down for the rigid ride, why go back [8D] just drop 10-15 lbs of air and enjoy the ride.
I'd take the weld-on kit that's built on a jig, TIG welded,and refined to perfection, myself.
And as far as swappin back...if you're down for the rigid ride, why go back [8D] just drop 10-15 lbs of air and enjoy the ride.
#10
02-25-2008, 08:31 AM
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RE: Lasted pic with rigid rear end and handlebars
Don't get me wrong, from their website the conversions look great, but if I was going to go through the hassle of doing that, I'd build a bike from ground up
ORIGINAL: 6o66er
Not exactly, because buying a rigid frame requires you to use an MSO in place of you VIN. A weld on is more practical and also keeps you from having to fab motor mounts, balance and shim your engine, and a SLEW of other pain-in-the-*** work when using a brand new frame. Ie. using a paughco POS frame requires you to use different gussets, use shims to space your rear wheel correctly, requires you to use a different front end setup to maintain proper rake and trail (in most cases) and most times they're crooked as hell. Most other mass production frames are also MIG welded and I wouldn't trust that as far as I could throw it.
I'd take the weld-on kit that's built on a jig, TIG welded,and refined to perfection, myself.
And as far as swappin back...if you're down for the rigid ride, why go back [8D] just drop 10-15 lbs of air and enjoy the ride.
Not exactly, because buying a rigid frame requires you to use an MSO in place of you VIN. A weld on is more practical and also keeps you from having to fab motor mounts, balance and shim your engine, and a SLEW of other pain-in-the-*** work when using a brand new frame. Ie. using a paughco POS frame requires you to use different gussets, use shims to space your rear wheel correctly, requires you to use a different front end setup to maintain proper rake and trail (in most cases) and most times they're crooked as hell. Most other mass production frames are also MIG welded and I wouldn't trust that as far as I could throw it.
I'd take the weld-on kit that's built on a jig, TIG welded,and refined to perfection, myself.
And as far as swappin back...if you're down for the rigid ride, why go back [8D] just drop 10-15 lbs of air and enjoy the ride.