What about Butt Caulk. Perfect for any plumbing job. I'm sorry I couldn't resist.




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Aviator Form-a-Gasket on the threads works great. And your idea to cut the cable is right. Cut the cable, pull the other end out from within the primary. The old broken part of the hollow bolt will come right out. (mine did) used a left-hand bit to take it out.. piece of cake.

 

The pool probably came from your cable...bear with me for a minute...lol...

When you ride, your primary will send oil up the clutch cable to a certain extent...while the nut may still be to spec, it can still leak from time to time because of something as simple as heat expansion. Hence the reason that as oil settles after a ride on broken-in bikes, some can or will either leak on the surface of the hose or drip to the ground. It's not a bad thing at all...no machine is ever really air-tight when you're talking about metal, heat, and fluids (especially high-viscosity fluids).

It was probably just signs of life

and +1 on the lefty bit...that ferrule ain't tight at all.

 

had the same thing just happen to me... YOU DON"T HAVE TO TAKE THE PRIMARY OFF! Just cut the cable and pulll it out... then get and EZ out. Took me all of 5 minutes. PS: the primary was already drained I assume you'd have to do that.

-LB

 

A couple of weeks ago I had a leak on my clutch cable. At first I thought it was the rubber "o" ring at the case, but on closer inspection I found that it was actually going up into the cable and leaking around the cable shroud. It must not be too uncommon... I called the dealer and they said the only fix was a new cable, and it was covered by warranty. Yours may indeed be leaking at the case, but check the cable also.

CBR

 

What type of tools did you use with the extractor bit? I was thinking of just using a screw driver handle that takes other bits, since there's not much space to work with on the primary cover.

What's the size of the EZ out? The hardware store around doesn't carry it, and I will have to purchase online.

Does a new clutch cable come with the adjuster on it, or do I have to somehow take it off the old cable and put it on the new?

As you can see, I am a newbie when it comes to tools and mechanical stuff. Thanks for your patience.

 

I would say that would be a good time to upgrade to Drag Specialties braided cables...
Happened to me as well...o-ring was smashed and when I changed it the threads cracked. Easy to remove the bit in the primary...used an easy out but could have gotten away without it.
New braided cable is smoother...teflon sleeve inside...no leaks in two seasons (is that a record?)

Rick C.