Correct. I did not. The front one seems rubbery and flexible just like the new one. Don't have the tools to remove the intake manifold nor to cut a allen wrench to proper size. Those things are made of hard steel

 

Found where the leak is coming from. Turning the throttle rapidly and it visually leaks:

 

Is that a crack just above the red arrow? Was that there before you took the carb apart? What may have caused it, if it was not there previously? Can you disassemble the bowl and take some better pictures? Offhand, I can't think of what would make it crack at that spot. Was the diaphragm rod misaligned and when you opened the throttle it wedged and cracked? That's all I could think would make it crack. Did you install the accelerator pump diaphragm correctly? I think it can only go one way, but it's been a while since I've had my carb apart.

Without changing the two manifold to head seals you're probably just wasting your time. I've heard a garbage disposal wrench (1/4") will fit the manifold bolts. Bondhus makes stubby Allen wrenches with a ball end on the long side.

You can probably JB Weld that spot if it's not being impinged by something that led to crack. You didn't drop the bowl by accident did you?

John

 

Do not put the carb back on without changing the seals. Change them while you are in there right now. Watch a video or two on how to get it done. It's less than a 45 minute job. Then you will at least know how old they are. You don't know how old the ones you have in right now are. Use cheap seals and you will back in there within 3-5 years. Decent seals from James gaskets are cheap insurance. Using two cans of carb cleaner doesn't prove anything is clean. You need to clean everything within an inch of its life. Ultrasonic cleaners are awesome here. Get it done right and keep clean gas in there and you will be good for over 10 years.

 

Yes, agree. I bought two seals from my local dealer to use instead of the ones that came with the Ebay carb kit, just for peace of mind.

John

 

CV performance doesn't say the brand of the seals. I may check with the local dealer for new seals...

The one seal I replaced seemed perfectly fine. In fact seemingly a better fit. I really really don't want to replace them. The leak comes from probably a dislodged seal in the accelerator pump, possibly when I was inserting the shiny pin (not sure what you call it).

Question - would that constitute an "air leak"? And cause the issues I described

 

"I really really don't want to replace them." Sometimes you don't have a choice, and you really don't.

CV Performance sells good stuff, from my experience. I would not worry about that at this point. Vacuum leaks at the manifold-head would constitute an "air leak" and cause "hanging idle" problems, and poor performance. You have to do it all, seals along with the carburetor, otherwise you leave too much to chance. This is a job you have to do it right.

Does your accelerator pump squirt gas into the carb? What caused that crack? I looked at my carb and that has to be a crack, even enlarging your photo. That crack would not cause the symptoms you describe, but a big vacuum leak would.

These bolts would work perfect if you decide to replace the Allen heads:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-651-0750

Ask one of your neighbors for a garbage disposer wrench, all you need to do is loosen them, they are not tight at all. Then, replace with flange head bolts and just use a regular open end wrench to do the re-install. I have an extra disposer wrench if you want me to mail it to you.

John

 

CV Performance uses Cometic, they're on my bench 😁

 

That's good information.

John

 

John, I tried a garbage disposal wrench - it won't fit, the head is too large or something. I'll see what I can do tomorrow and also got the number of a lot of a local independent mechanic so I'll get it done.
Will keep you updated