SE dry type. I can get more details when I start working on it

 

You can't go wrong with a 45 pilot and 170 main jet. Set your idle screw about 2.5 turns out, you can use the "idle drop" method to fine tune it after that, if you wish.

Here's a shot of my plugs for reference, I think they look pretty good. This is a basic 1250 with 45/190 jetting, IMS ~3 turns out.


John

 

Current main jet is 160. I can't reach the idle jet yet as I need a thinner screw driver.

The carb bowl seems pretty clean.

Also, I don't have the proper tool to take off the manifold intake - it's a really short allen wrench of sort

 

Yes, you need a short Allen wrench, Bondhus makes them, or cut off a regular wrench. I've heard that a garbage disposal wrench will also work. I replaced the lower bolts on my bike with regular hex head cap screws.

Also, do not tighten them all the way, just get it lined up with the carb mounted to bracket or air cleaner backplate, and then tighten them last. They only need to be a few foot pounds, just snug the flanges up against the heads, the manifold seals do the rest. The cylinders pull away from each other as the motor warms up and the seals let that happen. If you ever look at it cold and then hot, you can actually see the expansion.

Also, hollow ground screwdrivers work best for the jets, as do JIS screwdrivers for the bowl screws if they are original. A dot on the screw head tells you its JIS, not Phillips. JIS: Japanese Industrial Standard. I have a pair of them, invaluable tools, also work great with Phillips heads. I work on lots of Japanese dual sports, without my JIS screwdrivers carb work would be a nightmare.

Yes, it all looks very clean inside. Once you refresh all the seals and fine tune it, you won't have to worry about it again for years.

John

 

I appreciate the pointers John.

So currently I have main jet 160 and idle jet 42. Question - what would 170/45 jets do, make the engine run rich?

I've placed the order, it says it takes estimated 7 buisness days to get shipped... I just couldn't wait and had to see what I was dealing with and took the carb apart

 

I doubt it. That's what I ran on my bike when it was an 883, and the plugs looked good, a nice tan/gray. 160 main jet is very lean. 170 no problem. Take a look at your plugs after 100 miles or so to see what changes. You're plugs looked lean, so any richening is good.

Good for you taking the initiative, give you a chance to clean it all up, take a look at the manifold, and develop a plan. Well done IMO.

John

 

Well, the jury is still out lol. Looking at the carburetor screws and stuff, I wouldn't be surprised if it was never serviced. Original jets and plugged mixture screw are probably the evidence.

BTW, from the pics above can we tell if the exhaust pipes are aftermarket?

 

Definitely aftermarket drag pipes. The stock pipes have a crossover tube just below the air cleaner cover. Commonly called "H" pipes. Drag pipes tend to have flat spots under acceleration and the crossover helps keep a smooth torque curve.

John

 

Reading some thread including this https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...ht-pipe-2.html
(John you chimed in)

A lot of what was said in this thread now makes sense to me. So basically the previous owner didn't do sht just put loud pipes lol

That probably explains the cracked oil housing I inherited this bike with https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...t-screwed.html

 

Those aren't drag pipes. They actually do have a baffle in them. They are likely "Cycle Shack" or "Paughco" slash cut exhaust pipes. They were very popular back in the 90's and 2000's. They dyno'd pretty well as I recall...