Did I miss the year and model?
Once the bike is allowed to sleep after about 15 minutes being OFF....
What is the milliamp draw shown on meter when connected between ground battery cable and negative terminal?
Do you have a security system? What kind? Does it have a security light?
Do you have anything electric connected to bike that was not factory direct?
What is the age of the battery?

 

My bike had factory security. The battery did not start the bike reliably after two weeks of sitting.
Many years later I finally got rid of security module, now the bike may sit two months and it still starts.

 

I know how to edit posts, but I only have 'quote', multi-quote', and 'reply' buttons - no 'edit' button.

About the bike - it;s a 2016 Roadster w/no security - plain jane. Bought it used in 2017 with about 800 miles on it. It had a dead battery then.
The place I bought it from replaced it, but I've never really trusted it to start and it's gone through about a battery per year.
No extra electronic components were added.

I did a draw test a while ago. Not sure I did it right because I got a negative reading (probes wrong?).
If I remember right it was about -0.14ma, and it should be about 0.06.
The only reason I checked voltage for several consecutive days was to get an accurate reading on how much voltage it was actually losing while sitting.
Put in another new battery at the start of the season, and replaced the 6 gauge ground and hot wires with 4 gauge.
It's been starting pretty good, but I still don't really trust it, so I was just looking for extra info or experiences.

Edit: I have an edit button with this post I just made, but all my previous posts in this thread don't have one, so I'm guessing it disappears after a time.

 

I haven't read through the thread so I apologize in advance if someone already posted this.
I would pull the gas tank and side cover. Then meticulously disconnect every connector in the harness, one by one, checking the current draw as I went.
Save the ECM and BCM modules for last since all the other parts connect to one or the other of them and need to be checked first. Include lighting, horn, brake switches, anything that has a connector that can be undone. This job would suck, I know.
Once checked and found good (not the culprit) reconnect the plug, mark it on a list or the electrical schematic, and move on.
It would not be a pleasant job but I can't think of a better way to track it down.

 

OK - reading through your post, it makes sense to me. Seems like it might be a future, winter project. A good way to really get to know the bike too.

 

No edit button again , but I thought of a quick question, if anyone knows.

What happens if you remove the gas tank and then turn on the run switch to check the draw on the various connectors?

 

Stop...Before you screw up an electrical component.

You have yet to determine if you actually have a parasitic battery draw, and you have not told us what makes you believe you do...

If you want to go off on your own with left field ideas that will yield nothing, and maybe damage something, go ahead on your own, otherwise listen to people who have a clue.

Go back and read post #10, answer the questions.

 

Again, what makes you think you have a draw? Usually it is from dead batteries from sitting, people realize they have one, or think they do.. Load test battery, or disconnect battery and let it
sit for few days. If you know you have one disregard

 

If you hit the kill button and leave it that way there is no power to the fuel pump. However I never had the need to do that so I don't know if it would bring about the end of the world as we know it.
Maybe you should put it on a tender once a week and just ride the motorcycle until you're sure there is a real problem.

 

Problem with a tender is it can mask a problem. But if not getting rode enough it should be put on tender over night perodically.