They make a repair kit for cars, perhaps the drain plug is the same size.

John

 

Time-sert is the way to do it but they're a bit pricey, but it is steel and better than new when done. Colony also makes oversized plugs so you can drill it out and tap it. I may be able to chase the threads from above, ie thread a chaser down through the hole from inside the case, as it looks like it is just the first couple threads. I am sending it out to Hammer to have the lifter pins bored and threaded so I will let them fix it I think.

 

I talked to Dan at Hammer again today and this new motor is going to get shipped off next week after I get it completely stripped down and packed up. I'm gonna have it rebuilt. I'll get the cranks rebuilt, cam box clearanced, cam cover cut down, lifter pins updates, and time-sert the primary drain for the bottom end. Then get the heads done, 1275 kit, and 560 cams. I'm gonna carry over the pinion from my 2003 motor to get the finer tooth gear mesh as well to make things easier later down the road.

 

Got the new motor fully stripped down. Looks really good. It did have water in the crankcase but there wasn't much dirt in the primary. This was all the dirt that made it in the open drain plug.

 

Off it goes to Hammer....

 

So in closing, after stripping down the new motor I am realizing just how tired the old botton end really was. The side play on the rods was much greater and the lifter bores looked much more worn. The transmission on the new motor looks brand new. So with the new stator, rotor, clutch, primary chain, rockers, pushrods, and starter I already have coupled with the new low mile engine case and transmission I just bought, plus the rods, bearings, cylinders, pistons, heads, lifters, and cams I am getting from hammer it will be a new engine. I paid off my student loans a couple weeks ago so I am now completely debt free, so it's time for a new engine to go with the new everything else on this bike. I figure all in I'll be into my 2003 the cost of a new Sportster, which makes sense because it will be a new Sportster. I was driving on the fwy yesterday on my way to work and got behind a truck towing a pretty sweet river boat which looked like it cost a fortune to build. On the back was written..."It's only money". I guess if you're gonna overhaul something old to be new you best have that attitude and plan on enjoying it yourself for a while because you will never get that money back selling it. Frankly, I think half the fun is building it.

 

Also, in case anyone was wondering I cleaned off all the carbon on the pistons and it revealed that the rear exhaust valve did in fact kiss the piston when the lifter failed. You really can't tell until you get all the carbon cleaned off and can see the bare metal but there it is, plain as day.

 

I want to clarify that I paid off my student loans, not Biden. Didn't want anyone thinking I was buying a new engine because the taxpayers paid off my student loans.

 

Congrats on the payoff, it’s a good feeling being responsible and clear.

As an old *** worn out control tech who spent 200k on colleges and tuitions for the kids, and will be working until dropping dead (hopefully on job site for double life insurance payout) being responsible for your debts is out of the ordinary in 2024.

 

If anyone was wondering what the cost is for the 100+ hp build.....

Bottom end ~$1500
Top End ~$2500
HSR45/intake/jet kit/CV air cleaner adapter ~$800

Had I stuck with the 2003 bottom end it would have been about $1000 due to the pressed cranks. Obviously costs will vary as I had the lifter pins updated and the cam box clearanced as well.