Im wondering how much labor was involved and total cost to have the intake seals done at a shop or dealer? I have a 2000 sporty with a cough and pretty sure its the intake seals, just no time atm to dig into it. I might get it apart, then I'll get sidetracked, and parts will get lost, and u know the drill... might just "have it done"! (Unless someone says it is easy, and fast DIY job)

 

probably less than 500 at harley...

 

How have you diagnosed the problem?

 

Probably takes less than an hour, carb pops off easy, just set it aside on a stool. Don't need to even disconnect cables. Pull vacuum and fuel lines, inspect and replace as needed.

Need a 3/8" stubby allen wrench and some red grease or dish soap I think factory manual says. Easy peasy job. Very important to do for sure. Yours could be 22 years old for all you know. Probably have to pull off the fuel tank, another two bolts that are easy to do. Basically 6 bolts, 2 for the the aircleaner, and four for the manifold. Don't mix up the manifold flanges they should be marked for front and rear. Leave manifold bolts a bit loose till you fasten the carb back, then only hand tight after that so manifold is aligned with carb and backplate. The manifold actually moves in and out of the flanges as the cylinders heat up, moving away from each other.

Reaching the top bolts at the end is the only tedious part, the rest is easy. A ball end stubby Allen works best for those upper manifold bolts. You can get a Bondhus on Ebay.

It's an easy job, so don't take any bs about it at the shop. I think replacing them is one of the most overlooked solutions to carb cough.

John

 

I am happy to read these posts! I have a 2005 that falls on it's face when I open the throttle after warmed up. I am going to have the intake seals re-done. (when this bloddy snow melts, we got over 10' thus far)

 

I had a intermittent backfire and changed the seals and it did not fix the problem. Had to change ignition module in the nose cone right side and it fixed the problem. The part was not cheap.

 

thanks guys, I think from everything I read the seals would be #1 to do. if it's ignition, I'll have to deal with it. seems more rear cylinder than both so Im hoping that means the rear cyl intake seal but we'll see. I'll go ahead and take a crack at it, already picked up the seals at HD and watched a couple youtubes

 

scribe some marks on the intake Y piece and where that piece attaches to the flanges on the heads. you want it in the correct position when you go back together with it. (the same as where it was from the factory). Order you one of these for sure to do the job. https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produ...-xl-sportsters

Do not overtighten those bolts when going back together with it.

 

I could be wrong on the wrench size, 3/8" sounds too large. I changed out my 2 lower cap screws for hex heads, and I can't see the other ones easily to confirm Allen size.

John

 

it's 1/4 allen for the intake manifold flange bolts. ball-end 1/4" allen or a 1/4" stubby bit like you mentioned is what i use when replacing seals. yeah i changed the lowers to hex as well haha.

another note on installing seals is to lube them with grease or dish soap. i prefer dish soap because it evaporates off. the soap or grease will allow the seals to glide along the mating surface without getting bound up or tearing. only intake seal leak i've had was the first time i installed the seals dry.