So on my 88 sporty xlh 883 I’ve installed boss speakers two months ago no problems playing music during my rides get home after a ride turn the switch to the speakers off, next day for a ride the bike starts up no problems I can go out on a ride have fun but recently last week I’ve installed a new led headlight to rid of the crappy 80s style headlight, took it out for a ride a day after installing the headlight and mind you everything is working headlight, brake light, turn signals etc everything is working fine, I’ll be out for 45 minutes to an hour I notice my turn signal indicators on my speedo isn’t showing up I look down at my turn signals they’re not working no flashing lights nothing yet my brake light and headlight is still working, I return home shut the bike off go to start it up again bikes completely dead, put it on the charger to get fully charged think it’s all good. Well I took the bike out for ride yesterday after it’s been fully charged everything is back to working but same thing happened 45 minutes to an hour into my ride, turn signal indicators on my speedo not showing up, turn signals not working get home shut down the bike and try to start her up and she dead…..

What could be the issue? Could it be cause I don’t have a load equalizer module, battery is no good.. what could be the issue? I don’t think it’s the stator and or voltage regulator cause I just replaced those not even a year ago.

 

Sounds like your battery is just worn out. Start there. Charge it and do a load test on it to see the reserve cold cranking amp matches the battery rating with a good tester.

I have had trouble myself having that done on small bike batteries.

I usually just redo connections on it. Charge it. Hit the lights on and off. Voltage should be 12.7 (12.3 is junk). Then I crank it and if it drops below 9.7 cranking, it's junk. .


If it passes those two, I run engine up to about 2000 rpm. Voltage should be 13.5 to 14.5 and below 15. Bike charging is good.


Then you need to check all those other modifications you have done.

 

You mean with lights on? While I realize 12.7 is ideal, with the bike off, I have had a lot start in low 12s.

Its interesting that is starting, if battery is bad.

Check that it goes to 14.4 dc, with the bike reved up. If it doesn't check AC out of stator, guessing around 20v ac per 100 RPM, take it up to 80 volts.

Load test is good. Another half *** test this time of year, when you may not be riding much, is charge the battery, disconnect to make sure no parasite draws. See voltage and how it starts in a few days or a week. Could do the same with it connected to see if parasite draw. Clamp on DC amp meters have gotten cheaper, and are nice for this.


Also is the charging system on that year of bike good enough for the music? Converting to LED probably helped reduce load. Go for a red without the music and see if difference.


first thing I would do is rev up to 14.4 dc. Myself I would then charge it, take off charger and come back in a days or week, or load test if in rush.

 

Lot of depth there. To charge from the maintenance charger requires about 14. or so. So when you first remove the charger, battery will show that. Hitting lights on and off will kill that residual charge. Letting it set 24 hours will also do it

Then with nothing on, battery should be what I said for first check


Screw the rest of your post for me. I stopped reading other then what I explained that really didn't need explaining since it was clear others then many more words explaining why. What I posted works for me.

Just give your opinion of how he should address his problem. If he has any questions what I wrote, I am sure he can ask me what I said.

 

So I removed the speakers gonna go from there, I have the battery charging once it’s finished I’ll do a load test and do what you said Jackie and if the headlight being LED should reduce the load on to the battery like said if the load test clears I’ll take it out for a ride and if the same problem happens it looks like I’ll be ordering a new battery off J&P or Dennis Kirk

 

I don 't know why I helping. But if the battery passes a load test, you should look at your charging system. Why would you order a battery if it passes the load test?
Should have requested the the thread be closed after you posted.

 

Cause I just replaced it and also the battery is almost 4 years old.

 

confused. You just replaced it, and you think the new one if failing? replaced and 4 years old?? If the battery is 4 years old it doesn't hurt to replace. My touring batteries last 7 years. But if having issues, and 4 years old it something to think about.



If it passes load test, I would look at charging system. First thing I would do is put meter on it and see if you are getting 14.4ish dc when revved up. I would go for ride with radio off. I would charge it, then let it sit for a few days with battery disconnected, see if it starts. If it does, I would do the same with battery connected. Or I would get a dc clamp on, and see if there is a draw when parked.

 

I' m getting a charge out of the direction of this thread, it's electric!

 

Found the issue after charging the battery and taking the multimeter to it. The battery with a full charge and sitting for 2 hours reads 12.95v so looks to be the stator.