metal handlebars and real compass

https://setcompass.com/FalseCompassR...d%20spectacles.

 

Perhaps the windshield mounted type would be far enough from the handlebars to prevent significant deflection...

 

Being a fair weather rider I have always relied on the Sun to figure out which way is North. I do have an app on my phone, phone mounted with Ram mount and a usb power outlet on the handlebar for phone or other powered item. The usb outlet is on a switch and tells the voltage it has.

 

I've actually been leaning towards a RAM mount for my phone - probably the tough-claw with the quick-grip phone holder - and a dual port usb to keep it charged. So maybe I'll find that a GPS/compass app gives me what I need. I'm kind of a minimalist, though, so if I can find an analog compass that gives reasonably accurate readings mounted on the windshield, I may try it. might be worth a try...

As for the usb outlet, I'd been leaning towards the ones without the voltage readouts, but now that I think of it, it might be nice to have a visual indication of battery voltage. Although they have plenty of cheap ones, once I've gone to the trouble of routing it under my fuel tank, I don't want to have to do it again every few months when the port goes bad. So maybe it makes sense to spend a little more to get one that's going to last. Either that, or find one that's modular so the usb port itself can be replaced easily without re-running the wiring...

 

Then you have to take your phone on and off the bike, One of things I like about my new bike is bluetooth,. Phone stays in my pocket. I would usually end up a few miles down the road before I realiized I didn't plug my phone in, or I needed to turn up the volume. I had a phone every time you plugged it in you had to yes I know it will hurt my ears.

 

I have a bluetooth headset, but having it in my ears while riding scares me a bit, due to the possibility of something turning on at extreme volume, and my being unable to do anything about it till I'm able to get off the road and remove my helmet...

 

No I meant with my bike that has a radio, and mating radio to phone. One bike gets plugged into phone the other has bluetooth to radio.

 

Incidentally, how did you run the cable on that charger? Did you remove seat and fuel tank, or just sort of fish it through beside the wiring harness? Is the cabling heat resistant at all? I'm wondering how many inches above the engine I need to keep it to avoid problems...

 

Over here we didn't have a running light in the front indicators, although it is now legal to do it, so the running light wire is in the connector under the tank free to power such devices as a USB port. The advantage is it is switched with the ignition.

Even though you have running lights that wire is carrying less than 1/2 Amp and would be suitable to take the additional load of a USB port.

 

Interesting. Looking at the manual now... I assume you're talking about the blue wires: pins 3 and 4 on connector 31A.
It would be nice if the manual had a table listing the nominal current draw of the various circuits and a total output capacity of the charging system. Based on the "Current and Voltage Output Test", I'm thinking the charging system can put out somewhere between 28 and 34 amps at 13V. From another forum post, I gather that the current needed to run the bike is around 16A + 2A to charge the battery. Not sure if that's with everything on, or nominal, but in any case, that would leave me something in the neighborhood of 12A for my heated gear (~5A max) and the charger. And as you pointed out, the 15A fuse is more than enough to handle the DRL and usb charger, so maybe I'll try going that route.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Brett S.