883 1200 swap
#1
#2
1998-2003 use a nose-cone ignition. It eliminates the ignition module under the seat, everything is contained in the nose cone. You can, if you wish, remove it, and put your 1989 type pickup into the nose cone instead, so it'll all plug right in.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
Last edited by aswracing; 09-02-2022 at 12:49 PM.
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Madnss (09-03-2022)
#3
1998-2003 use a nose-cone ignition. It eliminates the ignition module under the seat, everything is contained in the nose cone. You can, if you wish, remove it, and put your 1989 type pickup into the nose cone instead, so it'll all plug right in.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
This will fix my problem?
#4
1998-2003 use a nose-cone ignition. It eliminates the ignition module under the seat, everything is contained in the nose cone. You can, if you wish, remove it, and put your 1989 type pickup into the nose cone instead, so it'll all plug right in.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
This will fix my problem?
#5
No, unless you install your timing sensor from the other motor. That module is the one I used for my 1250 upgrade, as it just plugs in where the original ignition module resided, just above and behind the battery. It uses the stock timing sensor, like your 883 motor has. Your bike may not even have a spot to put that module.
The module you have in the 1200 is integrated into the "nosecone" timing cover and is prone to heat failures from what I understand. Dynatek makes a module that replaces the one you have, so it should just be an exact replacement for your module and connector.
I believe this is the module you need to get:
https://www.dynaonline.com/dyna-2000...ire-ii-sfk-1p/
You should contact Hammer Performance, they have what you need:
https://www.1250kits.com/xlignition.shtml#modules
Good luck!
John
The module you have in the 1200 is integrated into the "nosecone" timing cover and is prone to heat failures from what I understand. Dynatek makes a module that replaces the one you have, so it should just be an exact replacement for your module and connector.
I believe this is the module you need to get:
https://www.dynaonline.com/dyna-2000...ire-ii-sfk-1p/
You should contact Hammer Performance, they have what you need:
https://www.1250kits.com/xlignition.shtml#modules
Good luck!
John
Last edited by John Harper; 09-03-2022 at 08:46 AM.
#6
Here's how your bike is wired, at least if it's still stock:
Notice how the ignition module (25) has no 8-pin connector. It's hard wired into the bike. Starting in 1991 (the first year for 5-speeds) and running through 1993, that module got a 7-pin connector on it, making it really easy to swap out the module. Then from 1994-1997, the module had 8 pins. Then in 1998, the bikes got nose cone modules, which is what's in your 1999 motor. Instead of just a pickup unit in the nose cone, the entire ignition module got moved into the nose cone.
The only thing you really have to do, to overcome this issue, is to move the timing plate (23) from the old motor to the new one. It's not that hard to do. All you have to do is remove the pins (33) from the connector housing (32), remove the two screws that hold the plate on (30), and slide the wiring out of the cam cover.
That plate and it's wiring will go right into the 1999 cam box cover. Then you just put the pins back into the housing (in the correct locations of course), and plug it into the matching connector on the bike.
You will also need to set the timing, because it's the rotational position of that plate that sets ignition timing. See your service manual.
But this is the simplest path to solving your issue, and it's also free.
Last edited by aswracing; 09-03-2022 at 02:46 PM.
#7
He's got an 1989 883 ignition module, won't that be wrong for a factory 1200 motor? Even with the timing sensor swap? Should it be retarded a few degrees? Will that even work?
Ronnie's HD shows the same ignition module part number for my 1991 (formerly) 883 and your 1989 883, but the diagrams are completely different. Unfortunately, no convenient plug for you. So, you may/will have to splice in to use some kind of module compatible with your 1200 motor. Or, perhaps you can retard your 883 module like my 1250 kit says is possible, but not optimal. I can't recall reading of anyone using a 883 module on a factory 1200, only aftermarket conversions. Maybe I missed some threads, IDK. It does look like the 1989 1200 module is still available(?) if you go that route. IDK.
If you're going to the trouble of this swap, might as well get the right ignition. That's why I went with a new module for my bike.
John
Ronnie's HD shows the same ignition module part number for my 1991 (formerly) 883 and your 1989 883, but the diagrams are completely different. Unfortunately, no convenient plug for you. So, you may/will have to splice in to use some kind of module compatible with your 1200 motor. Or, perhaps you can retard your 883 module like my 1250 kit says is possible, but not optimal. I can't recall reading of anyone using a 883 module on a factory 1200, only aftermarket conversions. Maybe I missed some threads, IDK. It does look like the 1989 1200 module is still available(?) if you go that route. IDK.
If you're going to the trouble of this swap, might as well get the right ignition. That's why I went with a new module for my bike.
John
Last edited by John Harper; 09-03-2022 at 07:25 PM.
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#8
Now sure, I realize this is a native 1200 motor an not a conversion. But that actually favors the 883 ignition choice. Both motors are 9:1 and use hemi chambers, so their burn speed is going to be similar. Traditional conversions, done with reverse dome conversion pistons and the 883 heads, both raise the compression and introduce a squish band. Both of those things speed the burn, which is why a softer curve is really advantageous in a conversion. It's going to be less critical in this case however.
Moving the sensor plate from the old motor to the new, and using the 883 module, is just the simplest path to solve his problem, which is why I suggested it. The second simplest solution is to wire in the nose cone module that's already in the 1200 motor, thus eliminating his stock module and pickup. It's not rocket science, but it's a bit more trouble. However, if a person is concerned about the curve not being correct, that's the alternate solution to his problem here.
Ronnie's HD shows the same ignition module part number for my 1991 (formerly) 883 and your 1989 883, but the diagrams are completely different.
I'd bet money they list the 1991-1993 part number for the older bikes is because the original module for a 1989 XL883 (32410-86) is no longer available. So they're telling you to use a 7-pin 1991-1993 module. It can be installed on a 4-speed using a harness that's readily available in the aftermarket. Either that or a guy can cut wires and install a 7-pin connector.
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John Harper (09-04-2022)
#9
#10
1998-2003 use a nose-cone ignition. It eliminates the ignition module under the seat, everything is contained in the nose cone. You can, if you wish, remove it, and put your 1989 type pickup into the nose cone instead, so it'll all plug right in.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
1991+ vent the crankcase out the heads, through hollow breather bolts into the air cleaner. No need for the vent on the cam box cover.
You may run into interference with your kickstand and the primary adjuster.
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