​​​​​​​Absolutely unnecessary.

 

I don't posses oil filter wrench, I stick a screw driver into the oil filter and use the handle as a lever to unscrew it.

I only half fill the new filter with motor oil before installation, if you fill it, the oil will spill out onto the front of the motor.

I also smear a little motor oil around the filter's gasket to give a good seal and I hand tighten it as others above do..

 

So far as filter removal goes you can punch two holes in it top and bottom then drain it using a Form A Funnel or similar, cuts way back on the mess...of course you want to be SURE you can loosen it a bit before punching the holes.
Filter pliers work great in some applications but not on the Sportster since access to the side is poor. I use a high quality Hazet 2169 filter socket I bought years ago for another bike, FWIW it works on many cars too...expensive but worth it, never slips, never gets stuck, and will bust waaaay overtightened filters loose.
Rather than draining the tank from the hose and plug I use an oil extractor via the oil fill cap and that works really well...

 

Hiflo filter recommends 11 ft/lbs using the nut on the filter. It doesn't really matter, but the shop I used to work at had me do, and after coming in for a second service or more they were easier to get off than new customers

Could be a good or bad thing, not really sure lol.

Makes it a lot quicker to service when you can spin em off by hand and not have to put three strap wrenches on it

 

​​​​​​​Fair enough. As a newbie to HD I just follow the FSM.

 

A likely unintended benefit of the Sportster's drain plug...

After extended downtime, like winter, without starting the engine pull the drain plug for .5-1 second. Whatever moisture has accumulated in the engine will have settled into the drain hose and be expelled. Just top it off if the oil is good or start it to do an oil change without circulating all the that water.

 

Whatever water is in the engine sump will not come out when you remove the drain plug.

I would very much like the drain to be on the engine such that you could do an oil change without first having to start the engine to get the crankcase scavenged.

 

One great reason to completely warm up the engine and then do an oil change is that any of this "water" you speak of has thoroughly been purged from the oil and vented away.

John

 

I didn't speak of water in the oil. I do the oil change with the engine warmed up. I don't have issues with water in the oil. I have commented in the past that it would be nice to have a sump drain plug.

 

Get a aluminum (if there is clearance) or steel cup tool. Put a mark on it or the filter if you use strap wrench. Run it up till it touches and then about 3/4 turn.

If you notice on a a OEM filter, the case just about touches. Doing your hand method leaves a lot to be desired.

Everyone's 3/4 turn after it touches is a lot better.

It's going to be tight later. They do that. Get a good cup wrench. On mine, I did need to cut a little window out with a hacksaw for the CPS sensor.

I would use Harley's filter. It's spec for filter. Harley's are designed with oil pump size, idle and proper wt oil along with filter medium to do best at idle. Relief valve in cam plate takes care of high side oil pressure.