I have a 97 XL1200 Sportster I installed a Barnett extra plate clutch kit with HD diaphragm. Since then I have to keep the adjustment on cable at min 2mm to be able to disengage it. Checked the clutch release mechanism, it was fine. I adjusted how barnett recommended go until resistance then back up 1/8 turn, tried 1/2 way to much can feel it grab at idle. The clutch won't release until the lever is up tight against the bar. It engages about 1/2 inch out. I have installed same plates into 87 Sportster no issues. Any ideas TIA

 

Did you put slack in the cable before adjustment?
The Service manual shows a 1/4 turn (plus any additional clockwise adjustment (less than 1/6 of a turn) to get the hex lock plate on)

Remove cable adjuster from the frame retaining clips.
Pull the boot away from the cable adjuster.
Loosen the jamnut.
Turn the adjuster to fully loosen the clutch cable at the hand lever.

Then make the adjustment at the clutch-

Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt and then turn the adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn.
Install the hex lock plate with the spring and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to fit the lockplate onto the flats of the adjusting screw.

Lever Free Play (adjusting cable sheath length at lever)
Turn the adjuster away from the jam nut until there is no slack in the cable ferrule at the clutch lever.
Pull the clutch cable ferrule away from the clutch lever bracket and measure the free play
Adjust to specification. should be 1/16 to 1/8 inch

Tighten the jam nut to 120 in-lbs (13.6 Nm).
Pull the rubber boot over the cable adjuster

 

Done all of that.

 

Perhaps contact Barnett customer service?

John

 

I did and all they could tell me is readjust the clutch ramp. Turn 1/2 out, then 1/8 out , still kept dragging. Tearing it apart but I think what has happened is the clutch diaphragm has failed and the fingers are crushing in. The ramp looks fine so we will see

 

Are you absolutely sure that you got the very last friction plate of the old clutch out of the clutch basket before you put the new clutch pack in ?

 

The adjuster is 24 threads per inch.
One turn would give you 0.0417 inch between the adjuster and when it contacts the pressure plate bearing.

1/2 turn would give you 0.0208 inch between the adjuster screw and the pressure plate bearing.
1/4 turn would give you 0.0104 inch
1/8 turn would give you 0.0052 inch.


Link to the SportsterPedia for Evo Clutch info: Clutch Design & Operation


The diagram illustrates three zones on the Clutch Lever -
When fully released, Zone(1) is the 1/8” Cable Free Play where there is no tension whatsoever from the cable pulling on the lever - The lever just sorta dangles there in its mount…
As you pull the Clutch Lever toward the handlebar, you reach Zone(2) which is the Adjuster Free Play - The cable is now pulling on the Ball & Ramp, rotating it to expand…
This brings us to Zone(3) which occurs when the Ball & Ramp has expanded far enough to actually begin pulling the Clutch Pressure Plate away from the Clutch Pack.
Zone(3) continues all the way until the Clutch Lever reaches the handlebar.
If adjusted correctly, you will have these three distinct zones in the movement of your Clutch Lever and the Clutch Pack will be fully dis-engaged before the end of Zone(3) - before the lever is against the handlebars.

 

Thank you but yes I know how it works. Was checking to see if this is common problem, according to internet search yes it is, and what my be an easy fix. Tearing it down tomorrow.Down to 3 three things, plates are stuck, clutch basket either cracked or has a groove in it or diaphragm is crushed.

 

Good luck, be sure to let us know your final diagnosis.

John

 

Well got it apart. Measuring the diaphragm from fingers to level surface on standard diaphragm was.277, on Barnett HD it was.297. All of the steels showed light burning, less than 3000 miles, as the clutch wouldn't disengage. I also have standard diaphragm from Barnett it measures .277 also. The HD was just out to much for it to disengage.