Gotta love variables.

This is my girlfriends used sportster... over 50k.

The clutch pull is too much for her so she hasn't ridden it much at all since getting it. With the way it had been adjusted... neutral was impossible.

At first glance the only after market parts are the Mueller power clutch and a barnett pressure plate. I think even the diaphragm spring is stock.

I changed all the oil with amsoil 20w 50.

In the primary the oil is above the clutch shell teeth and just under the diaphragm spring. At least it was when i had it straight up on the lift and before the oil was spread around on start up. I'll check again now.

While I was in there I noticed there was waaaay too much free play in the primary chain so I tightened on the tight end of spec at 3/8.... cold

I adjusted the adjuster screw on the clutch the way HARLEY says... which was "tighten until you feel resistance and then back off 1/4 turn"... (power clutch says 1/8)

I tightened too much before backing off though

I loosened the clutch cable to give free play (notice how i Hadn't loosened it before the adjustment) Mueller says make sure there is no tension on the clutch segment when making this adjustment.

Anyhow this adjustment gave 1/16 of free play... measured by pulling cable away from ferrule. (Someone else who installed mueller said to forget about free play with power clutch... they couldn't adjust without drag any other way)

This adjustment I made on the cable would soften the pull but fail to fully disengage.

Put it in first and SLAM!!!

I've adjusted at the cable!

I've adjusted at the clutch adjuster screw!

Always slam!

With the cable adjustment I can go from easy crisp neutral...to slips past neutral... to cant get in neutral.

Thats the difference between fully disengaged drive... to partially disengaged drive...to partially engaged drive or full drag.

The hex lockplate at the ramp assembly is a hexagon. There is a dot on the inside of the hex lockplate... for reference i assume.

The hex locplate fits over the adjuster screw which has slightly flattened sides. This means from any starting point there is only 6 possible positions to try.

Feel for resistance then back off 1/8(Mueller)... ok but you have to keep moving slightly clockwise until the hex lockplate fits inside of the hex groove on the ramp assembly.

Which means slightly loosened from your desired point... better loose than tight. Those are harley instructions. From here on out you can only loosen or tighten 1/6th of the hex plate at a time...

Pretend the hex is a clock sitting on a flat side down... flat side up is 12... first pointed side TO THE RIGHT is 1.... I've tried the dot and therefore the adjuster screw at 1 2 and 4... nothing much is changing... all settings are manageable with varying degrees of tension... but always slam!

The RSD Regulator adjustable levers add another variable... they bring the lever a little closer to the bar but sacrifices a little clutch cable travel... or it disengages it a little more than usual. It does not effect the clutch adjustment in any other way.

I thought maybe I need to loosen the primary chain closer to the 1/2 then the 3/8. COLD.

It was a little noisy before I adjusted it the first time because it was way past 1/2. On the loose end. The oil inside the primary was black before the change. I did loosen to 1/2 free play but still the same slam.

I dont know if previous owner installed barnett clutch plates when they installed the barnett pressure plate and power clutch. I read that barnett suggests a thinner oil when using their plates

I sort of understand this stuff and how it works but the greater the variables the more confused i get. I'm not sure how im supposed to loosen the clutch cable completely then adjust the adjuster screw in the clutch and then pull the loose clutch cable like Mueller and Harley ask.

I've read the manual and the aftermarket instructions plus tons of forum stuff.

Unlike in the past I've tried everything I can first before posting a thread asking for help.

Anyone still left after all that?