Somebody help a newbie out!

​​​​​​Installed Hammer 1275 jugs, mikuni carb, breather, and heavier spring clutch pack yesterday. Went to install dynatech timing unit today but couldn't get the bike to TDC via the rear wheel. The rear wheel will not rotate the motor in any gear. What did I do wrong? When I crank the bike there is definitely pressure at the spark ports, and the timing chain rotates, but I'm not able to do it manually via the wheel and zip tie method. There's no pressure on my finger at all after multiple wheel revolutions.

I was trying to rotate the flywheel for timing purposes when I noticed this issue.

i was able to use the wheel to find TDC on installation of the heads and pistons, but now I've screwed something up and I'm at a loss.

The other issue I'm having is that since installing the heavier clutch spring, compressing the clutch lever has no effect, ie the bike stays in gear. I'm thinking this is sticky plates, but I have no frame of reference since I've only had this bike a month and it's been torn down for most of that time. I've adjusted the clutch several times and it pulls the way it's supposed too. Soaked plates, etc.

I've got to be having a blonde moment.

Any help is appreciated.

 

I used a chopstick in the plug hole. Is that what you did with a zip tie?

If you couldn't rotate the engine whilst in gear I am not sure using the starter motor was such a good idea.

Back track and start taking stuff apart.

 

agreed

So much going on in your post this advice is where I would start.

Are you sure it’s in 5th? You need to rotate the wheel back and forth a pinch to go up and down in gears. Hope that makes sense. Are you using a manual? The manual is key.

 

Ok I got the top end and primary opened back up. Put it in 5th gear.

Now, rotating the clutch basket alone rotates the wheel, but does not engage or rotate the primary chain or main sprocket. Whereas spinning the wheel alone rotates the clutch basket but only causes the chain to move about an 1/8th inch before ceasing.

Turning the main sprocket nut with a ratchet engages the whole system, wheel and all, and from what I can tell the pistons are seated and moving up/down normally. No gouges or dislodged rings. Looks fine.

What do I need to do to enable the rear wheel to engage the primary chain so I can find TDC?

Seems like I messed something up with the clutch. It's a new energy one clutch pack and I thought I followed the directions to the letter, but something is F'd up!

One thing i did not do during initial installation was use a sprocket locking link.

 

OK now I'm irritated.

Disassembled clutch. Added ONE extra steel plate from OEM pack. Reassembled clutch using heavy diaphragm spring. Problem fixed. Clutch compresses normally.

Seems like Hammer boned me.

OEM clutch pack is 8 friction 6 steel 1 'grenade spring plate' and diaphragm spring.

Energy One pack is 8 friction 7 steel and 15% stronger spring.

Question now is whether this is safe to reassemble. I started with a friction and ended with a steel.

So much for following the directions.

 

Forgive me I am wrong but I thought to replace the spring plate you use 2 x St and 1 x F as that is the thickness of the spring plate.

 

 

When all else fails, read the instructions.

 

My bike is an '02.

The printed instructions that came with the kit didn't specify that I actually needed 8 steel plates total for the new clutch pack and the stack height they sent was incorrect. It only came with 7. Glad I figured this out before I tore anything else apart.

Does it matter if the extra steel plate is in the middle or not?

 

Extra steel plate?

If it's installed correctly, you alternate the friction and steel plates. You never have two steel plates next to each other, nor do you ever have two friction plates next to each other.

You begin by installing a friction plate, then a steel plate, then friction plate, then a steel plate, etc, finally ending with a friction plate. When you're done, you'll have installed 9 frictions and 8 steels.

If your new clutch pack came without the correct number of frictions and/or steels, by all means, contact the company you bought it from. They can't fix a problem unless they know about it.

Like most retailers, they probably do not open the package and verify the contents of every product they sell. Customers hate to receive product that's already been opened.

I've never heard of a mistake on friction or steel counts from E1, but it's certainly possible. I'm sure the retailer will do whatever it takes to make it right. But you need to contact them.