According to the seller, the carb should be all stock, but I can't be sure, never took it off. The bike was upgraded to 1200 at a Harley dealer some 18-19 years ago and they might have changed the jets, but who knows.
Will take it out next weekend and clean/rebuild it.
While I am there I am planning to remove the petcock and clean it as well, it must be dirty after so many years. I read online there is some vacuum line there, is there anything I need to do about it?
Replace the vacuum line, and test the diaphragm on the petcock to see if it works properly. I assume it does, but the diaphragm on my friend's Suzuki recently went bad and leaked gasoline down the vacuum line, into the carb, and filled the crankcase with gasoline. It was quite a surprise when I dumped the oil and instead of one quart, about two gallons came gushing out, reeking of gas. That's a good reason to check it, I had no idea that could happen, but it did.
That's surprising, would never expect something like that happening.
How can I test the diaphragm on the petcock? Do I need some vacuum pump?
Is the vacuum line just a regular rubber line? Can't find any replacement vacuum line online.
That's surprising, would never expect something like that happening.
How can I test the diaphragm on the petcock? Do I need some vacuum pump?
Is the vacuum line just a regular rubber line? Can't find any replacement vacuum line online.
Just disassemble the vacuum part and inspect the diaphragm, if you can. I think the vacuum line is 3/16", at least it is to my VOES, I don't have a vacuum petcock. I used some Prestone emission control/fuel line I got at a local auto parts store. It's the nice two layer stuff.
Removed the carb today, it has 170 main jet, 42 pilot, both dirty, the IMS was at 6 turns out from seated (I believe because it was upgraded to 1200 and they didn't change jets), removed it, it's also black at the top and the rubber O ring is stuck in there. What's the best way to clean the whole carb, I was thinking to put it in a can of gas and brush it or is there any better way?
I wouldn't use gasoline. Some spray carb cleaner should help, don't forget all the passages. It doesn't look that bad, just need to clean the crap out.
I bent a safety pin into a small "J" to retrieve the IMS O ring. 6 turns out? Wow. You may want to buy some new jets, those look pretty crusty. You should go with a 45 pilot anyway, so you need to buy one already.
PS: Your float pivot pin only goes in one way, notice the arrow on the carb body.
John
Last edited by John Harper; 05-06-2020 at 07:42 PM.
I ordered some new jets, 45 pilot and 180 main, will replace these.
Do I also need to replace the emulsion tube? Mine only has 2 holes. I've seen others with a lot more holes.
I think the 2 holes is a Dynojet emulsion tube. If so, the regular Keihin mainjets won't fit. Different thread sizes. If so, your slide needle may be a Dynojet version as well.
I have a 170 and 175 Dynojet mainjets if you have a DJ emulsion tube. I can send them to you.
John
Last edited by John Harper; 05-06-2020 at 09:05 PM.
You are right, the jet on this carb is smaller than the regular Keihin mainjet (got an old CV carb from a friend for parts, also 2001 and completely stock, just opened to check and that mainjet/emulsion tube is larger) No idea about the needle, but as I mentioned I have stock parts from this old carb that I can reuse.
The main jet I ordered is the regular.
Is there any advantage of using the Dynojet needle/emulsion tube and mainjet (will have to buy another mainjet for that emulsion tube) or replace them with the stock from the old carb I have?
It also looks like the size numbers are different on Keihin and Dynojet, according to what I found online, 170 Dynojet is equal to 190 Keihin, maybe I should keep that as is and only try with a 45 pilot? Any suggestions?
Is there any advantage of using the Dynojet needle/emulsion tube and mainjet (will have to buy another mainjet for that emulsion tube) or replace them with the stock from the old carb I have?
It also looks like the size numbers are different on Keihin and Dynojet, according to what I found online, 170 Dynojet is equal to 190 Keihin, maybe I should keep that as is and only try with a 45 pilot? Any suggestions?
Most people disparage the DynoJet kits. I've had one on my bike since 1991 without any complaints. I can send you a 170 DJ and a 175 DJ mainjets for free.
I do not believe the 170 DJ is equal to a 190 Keihin. I took out my 170 DJ because it was too lean on my 883. I'm running a 180 DJ mainjet now and plugs look perfect light gray. I do have a 185 DJ that I might install next time I pull the carb just to see how WFO throttle feels. With the 175 DJ I could feel it was lean at WFO, the 180 DJ made it better, just want to see what the 185 DJ does.
If you have a spare stock CV40, you can swap the emulsion tube and needle and go from there with Keihin mainjets. Or, just put in a DJ mainjet and see how that works. As I said, I don't have any issues with my DJ kit, who knows. It would be nice to have a spare carb to do a side by side comparison on the "butt dyno" but I assume performance differences are negligible.
The numbers 170, 175, 180 should be metric measurements of the orifice, so that should be constant among brands. If not, why even bother numbering them? Just call them random letters, or names, or zodiac signs.
05-04-2020 | 01:02 PM
