Ok replaced the O ring on clutch cable and put thread sealer on cable and fitting threads. Reassembled everything, and adjusted the clutch (I thought) to specs. Clutch lever stopped short about 1/2" of the grip. Gear engagement seemed fine, but was leery, since lever still did not feel right.

Took back in my shop, pulled the clutch cover, loosened the cable adjustment, and backed out adjustment screw until resistance, then back in 1/4 turn. Set the nut/spring in place, and reinstalled cover. Took it for a ride. Much louder clunk into first, and seemed a bit of a grind. Bike was still somewhat warm from previous test, so nor cold. I noticed every gear seems to have a bit more click than before I did the O ring.

Cable is tight to case, and I did remove cable from the clutch lever when removing and replacing O ring.

On a good note, it sure seems a lot easier to find neutral than it did before. Is there something I missed? Do not recall it ever having this much of a "click" going into gears above first. Its not like they grind, but before you barely noticed the engagement.

 

You say you backed it out until you felt resistance and it was warm?
Start over and read the manual.
Loosen adjuster
Loosen jam nut
Turn center in then out 2 turns
Then turn it in until the allen wrench just hangs
Turn it counter clockwise 1/2-3/4 turn, hold and tighten the jam nut
Expand the adjuster until the cable has about a 16th free play at the lever.
Lock down the cable adjuster.

 

Did you get it squared away? If your still having difficulty, YouTube Sportster clutch cable adjustment and watch all that's available that's what I would do. There's nothing you can't learn to do on our bikes that's not available on YouTube. I'd avoid taking it to the dealership at all cost.

 

First off there is no allen wrench. Are you thinking big twin maybe?

This is directly from my manual

Remove hex lockplate with attached spring (3) from ßats of adjusting screw assembly (8). Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is felt. Back off adjusting screw 1/4 turn.

Slide hex lockplate with spring onto flats of adjusting screw. If necessary, turn adjusting screw clockwise slightly so that lockplate slides onto flats while also fitting within recess of outer ramp.

See Figure 1-45. Turn cable adjuster (2) clockwise away from jam nut (3) until slack is eliminated.

9. See Figure 1-47. Pull clutch cable ferrule away from clutch lever bracket to check free play. Turn cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket

 

Not yet, but will look again tomorrow. I have done it before, this one just didn't seem to come out the same.

 

I just double checked the cable clearance gap, and its right at 1/16", which book calls for 1/16-1/8" and going to 1/8" would make for less disengagement when the lever is pulled. So I will leave it as is I guess.

 

Ya I keep missing the fact that it's a Sportster when I post.

 

LOL when I first read your post I thought, Man I sure missed that in the manual, then I did reread it and then the light came on. I remembered reading a post similar to mine, and someone else did the same thing and was corrected by another poster. No worries. Easy to do when you post other forums like touring etc. appreciate the effort.